TLR frame spacing problems.
What can be likely problem with frame spacing problems in TLR's? My YashicaMat 124G looks variable over the entire roll. I'd like to adjust it myself if possible. Thanks
Are you getting the film nice and tightly wrapped on the takeup spool during the loading phase? Is everything in the film train under just a slight amount of tension when you close the back? For some reason my TLR's always shoot better when I take care to get all the slack out and get everything seated really well before closing up. Just an idea.
Originally Posted by waynecrider
After opening up a yashica em, these issues don't suprise me at all. Maybe the designs of the other trls have just as many hazards but the yashica winding seems designs to wear down and cause problems.
FWIW, my 124G has had frame spacing issues since the day I purchased it new. It's never seen heavy use, and I've just learned to live with it. Even with uneven spacing, the quality of the negatives is very, very good.
In spite of the prices you see on someplace like KEH (nearing $400 for EX+, which is what mine would be), don't forget that these were originally intended as lower-cost replicas for those who couldn't afford the German alternative. A favorite of starving students back in the day, I believe that they were eventually discounted to USD$99 by many camera stores when production finally ended.
Regarding adjustment, I've heard that there is a nylon gear in the winding mechanism that tends to wear over time. Can't personally confirm that as I've never opened mine up, but I've also heard that the 124(non-G) version has a metal version of the same gear. If true, that might be worth taking a look at.
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I owned a 124 (not G) and had pacing issues until I had it CLA'd. The the spacing was even more regular than my Rolleiflex's
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Yes that's been widely reported over the years, there are a few plastic parts in the 124G that make it slightly less robust. Mamiya were another manufacturer who also lowered the build quality of the C330 particularly the later versions compared to the earlier C33.
Originally Posted by Ken Nadvornick
I had the same problem with one of my Mamiya TLRs, the repair technician told me it was caused by some components in the winding mechanism being worn by normal use over time, (I bought it second hand twenty years ago), he replaced the worn parts, and It's as good as new now.
Ian Grant is corect. Yashica switched to cheap plastic gears in the 124G some time in the production run. You probably got one of those, and the gears are worn. They can be replaced with metal gears from a donor 124 or early production 124G with metal gears. Good luck finding either.
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Well,, I do have a 124 model with a bad shutter that I could use as a donor if need be, not that I would want to, since I was hoping to fix it up. Do worn gears cause the gutter to increase instead of decrease? Mine increase. I would think the opposite, not far enough, or maybe I have it backwards. Space between the frames run from 3/16ths to 3/8ths.
This camera sat in a collection and looks practically new outside, with just some rough paint on the body where the door seals touched and deteriorated. I replaced the seals and cleaned it. The question is, shoot as is and loose a frame or CLA it and pay for parts. I doubt I would want to replace the gears myself. I'd probably need additional tools and I'm thinking about selling the camera off, although it may not be worth trying after a repair for the return possible. Who's the person for a CLA just in case?
My Yashica 124-G had a spacing and shutter problem. About three years ago I sent it to Mark Hama for adjustment and it has worked perfectly ever since. He has an excellent reputation; I think the price was around $125, which is what I paid for the camera.