Matt, 6x7 cm cameras produce images that are 4x5 ratio (55.6x69 mm for my GS-1).
I used "close to" because there seems to be a fair amount of variation across models and brands - as an example my Mamiya RB 220 back that is closest to hand features an image size of 57mm x 67mm.
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
It is not a landscape or a portrait lens, and if anyone says stuff like like, be highly suspect of any information they have to offer. Those terms are ridiculous. It is just a lens, of a specific focal length for a specific format, as are all lenses. The way you figure out how to use it is to put it on the camera and look through it, then move the camera around until what you see (and I mean ANYTHING you see, be it a person or a turd) in the viewfinder pleases you!
The lens is a moderate long lens. It is double the focal length of the "normal" 90mm lens for the system, so it will show you about half of what you see with a normal lens.
Last edited by 2F/2F; 10-12-2010 at 04:06 PM. Click to view previous post history.
"Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."
What 2F/2F said. I took just this lens (well, the RZ edition, which should be very similar) and a 110/2.8 to Cambodia for a couple of weeks and it worked wonderfully. Admittedly the 110 got 80% of the use but the 180 was certainly valuable.
In terms of tips, note that you will struggle to get everything within your DOF, particularly if there is foreground and background with any meaningful separation. However, it should have good bokeh when focused up close, so make good use of that - there is no rule that says landscapes must be entirely in focus, just (IMHO) that there shouldnt' be a lack of sharpness in parts of the image that look like they should be focused. In other words, get it all in focus or don't but don't have stuff just a little bit blurry.
Thanks especially to polyglot/macrorie - your responses are *exactly* the type of information about DOF/FOV relationships i most need help with and continue in my need!
I'm really excited to get my lens and "see" what i can do with it! I'm sure some of my answers will come simply with mounting the lens and getting used to the focal length/DOF/FOV, but i know when i started with 35mm there were some great little tidbits of info about focal length and DOF that would've been nice to know beforehand. I'm hoping some of it will carry over to MF, but ignorance is being blind - and i'm *very* blind!!!!
No problem! Go for it!. Crank your lens and start looking; you'll soon find your subject. Cartier Bresson bought a Tele at the end of his life to photograph landscapes; so, you are in great company.
Oh pumalite - you're killing me!!!!
There's only a few differences btw me and 'ol Henri - i'm younger than him, i want to use a 6x7 camera, HE HAD HUGE TALENT AND WAS DEDICATED TO HARD WORK - i'm too lazy and haven't developed the vision!