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  1. #11
    hpulley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    Dude, you should have asked me first. I use thin adhesive back sheet foam from Michael's--like a buck for an 8x10 sheet...

    Get a popsicle stick or any other small piece of wood and cut it into chisel shape. Make several. Use a QTip with some isopropyl to moisten the old foam. Carefully scrape it out--as much as you can. Let it dry and go back for more--remember you're removing both foam and adhesive. If you need an online anatomical photo of the RB back, I'll send a link. The really critical seals are at the hinge and clasp of the outer shell and the RB adapter surface that meets the back. The foam in that square channel surrounding the film gate is a critical light baffle. Let me know if you need any help.
    This stuff is pre-cut for $16 shipped from Nagoya (will have to say hi to him next time I'm there). How do you but the stuff to the right size and shape?

    Thanks for the offer of help, I might need it...
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

    Happiness is...

  2. #12
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by hpulley View Post
    This stuff is pre-cut for $16 shipped from Nagoya (will have to say hi to him next time I'm there). How do you but the stuff to the right size and shape?

    Thanks for the offer of help, I might need it...
    Xacto knife and a steel straight edge. Have used this adhesive-backed foam and felt for years for 35mm clunkers. Works perfectly. Maybe I'm more of a survivalist than I think...Enjoy the holidays.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by George Nova Scotia View Post
    Thanks for the pdf manual, George, you are indeed a prince! Now that my 120 insert is officially a hangar queen anyway, I'll have the women and children stand back, put on my Optivisor, and dive headlong into it. The worst I can do is have a sack of spare parts for future use available, at best I'll get it working again.

  4. #14

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    It is very easy to open. There are 2 screws one at each corner on the top, two more on the underside by the spool. Once those are out, take off the dot of leatherete on the lever and unscrew the large center screw. The lever should pick up but be carefull to not lift the winder or you will lose the spring tension. No problem putting it back as you will figire it out sooner or later that it catches the matal plate that sits on the spindle.

    Whe taking the top off, watch for the little slip of metal that covers the hole on the lever side. That has to slip into the slot, just as you will need to do when reassembling it. I put the insert in multi froame more so it will retract the slip of metal, it makes it easier to remove the over.


    Your problem soounds like the small lever that hits the edge of the shell is not engaging properly. That will be on the counter side near the top.

    Put the insert with the lever reinstalled into the shell loaded with a test roll of film, just the paper backing is enough and try cocking n firing it to see how everything works together.

    BTW while it is open install new seals before reassembly, it makes it so much easier to do.
    Anyone can make a Digital print, but only a photographer can make a photograph.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    Dude, you should have asked me first. I use thin adhesive back sheet foam from Michael's--like a buck for an 8x10 sheet...

    Get a popsicle stick or any other small piece of wood and cut it into chisel shape. Make several. Use a QTip with some isopropyl to moisten the old foam. Carefully scrape it out--as much as you can. Let it dry and go back for more--remember you're removing both foam and adhesive. If you need an online anatomical photo of the RB back, I'll send a link. The really critical seals are at the hinge and clasp of the outer shell and the RB adapter surface that meets the back. The foam in that square channel surrounding the film gate is a critical light baffle. Let me know if you need any help.
    I have found that velvet ribbon works best on the hinge side of the outer shell personally. While I have no problem using the foam from Michael's or Hobby Lobby, it's frequently too dense.

  6. #16
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by epatsellis View Post
    I have found that velvet ribbon works best on the hinge side of the outer shell personally. While I have no problem using the foam from Michael's or Hobby Lobby, it's frequently too dense.
    That's not been my experience. Michael's in Canada sell an ultra thin adhesive backed foam that works perfectly. Their usual is about 3mm--too thick even when compressed.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by CGW View Post
    That's not been my experience. Michael's in Canada sell an ultra thin adhesive backed foam that works perfectly. Their usual is about 3mm--too thick even when compressed.
    That would probably work well, I haven't been able to find such an item locally, and I have plenty of velvet on hand.

  8. #18

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    I just used felt from Wal-Mart.

    When I got my Rb I read about the seals being bad on those cameras. They mentioned foam and felt. I dug out the old foam and went down to Wal-mart and bought some felt. I comes in a 12 in. X 12 in. square or there abouts. I cut it with a hair cutting scissors and glued it in with rubber cement. It has worked great and I haven't seen any light leaks. I repaired another one that way but haven't tried it out yet. If the door doesn't close, I just pulled out some and replaced it until it did. You can buy those expensive foams seals but they will eventually turn to gum where as the felt won't. I haven't heard any reason not to use it, so if it isn't a good idea, stay with the foam. Ric.

  9. #19
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ric Trexell View Post
    When I got my Rb I read about the seals being bad on those cameras. They mentioned foam and felt. I dug out the old foam and went down to Wal-mart and bought some felt. I comes in a 12 in. X 12 in. square or there abouts. I cut it with a hair cutting scissors and glued it in with rubber cement. It has worked great and I haven't seen any light leaks. I repaired another one that way but haven't tried it out yet. If the door doesn't close, I just pulled out some and replaced it until it did. You can buy those expensive foams seals but they will eventually turn to gum where as the felt won't. I haven't heard any reason not to use it, so if it isn't a good idea, stay with the foam. Ric.
    I've used a thin adhesive-backed felt, too. It's worked well on some 35mm SLR backs. I think the foam kits are over-priced and often overkill.

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