Yes - darkslide is out. I have stopped putting it in after loading film, so I won't forget ... only use it to take the back off.
I am pretty sure that the camera never quit winding or firing before when I have hit 12 - again, I KNOW I loaded it wrong the first time (as I loaded it like I would an auto back - and am pretty sure that I just wound through the whole film). The second time - I swear I did it right - but then again, I just don't know. I honestly didn't pay attention to numbers. The first time I used it - I think it started at 2? The second time, just a test roll, I just shot and shot and never looked down. this LAST time I seriously hope it worked because I had some very interesting subjects that didn't speak English and seemed rather weirded out that I was taking their picture. I am thinking it worked this time, as it stopped firing after twelve ... it hadn't done that before, which means I am sure I loaded it wrong. Will be developing tonight and will post as soon as I know if it worked!
I don't have a light tight bathroom and to prevent light leaks under the door, only transfer film in the black of night.
I will test the camera at normal speeds and see if it works, too.
"in the black of night" won't do, katie, i hope you know that.
use at least like a black garbage-bag that you seal around the wrists,
and then again only in a pitch black room if you do.
It has worked so far. I do it in a dark bathroom, where I literally cannot see a thing in front of my face (and have been in there for up to a half hour before). It's a light tight room, other than the edges of the door; so I turn every light off in the house. There is NO light at all coming in.
Okay - so the test at "normal" speeds was the trick. I seems that the camera isn't working at apertures of 4 - 2.8. Well, it does only at 1/8 of a second and slower. At 1/15 I see HALF (the lower part) of light through the hole. At 1/30 and faster I see NOTHING at all.
I am holding the camera back to my eye in a dark room and pointing it at the light with no back on.
I guess I have to take it in, right? does this mean it's the lens, since the shutter is in there? Is it worth it, seeing how I paid $300 for a non-working camera? Would you take it in, or simply ask the gentleman to refund my money. I'm not dead-set on a Hasselblad right now, and am quite pleased with the Bronica. I will continue to buy other cameras, though ... just to test the waters. I would really like a square format - should I return the Hasselblad and go for an SQ series Bronica from KEH where I know that it will work (or can return if not). I'm torn. It's an older Hasselblad (C, not CM) with a back that doesn't match the insert. BUT it is a really cool camera. What would you do?
So at all apertures I cannot see any light at all with shutter speeds faster than 1/15. Should I be able to detect light from an open back through the lens at 1/30 and faster? I don't know what the human eye can see as far as speed... But this would explain my blank negatives, because I was shooting faster than 1/30 on the whole roll(s).
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Yes, You should definitely be able to see light - even through a shutter that is running at 1/250 second....or, even faster. Don't you have a 35mm SLR ? open the back and try it for yourself....
It is the lens, Kaie.
Perhaps you can arrange to have the lens replaced, or have it fixed at the seller's expense.
$300 wasn't much to pay for a complete kit. But if you add the expense of having the lens repaired, the back probably needing work too... And who knows what fun the body still holds in store.
I think i would return it. There are plenty of fish in the sea, that sort of thing.
I wouldn't exchange it for a Bronica though. Why would anyone want to do that?
"It's the lens" : maybe - maybe not.
When you fire, this should happen in rapid succession :
1/ On the lens
a/ the shutter closes
b/ the diaphragm is preset
2/ On the body
a/ the miror goes up
b/ the rear flap opens
3/ On the lens
a/ the shutter opens
b/ after exposure time the shutter closes
What may be the issue with your cam is that the second step is too much delayed for the faster speeds, so that the rear flap is still closed when on the lens the shutter has already opened and closed.
You may return it, but you may also be fine if you only have the whole thing (body+lens+back) CLAded. Ask a specialist about the possible cause of this malfunction and probable cost of repair...
You can change slow film, especially slow film with crap reciprocity in simply very dark conditions without fogging
Originally Posted by maarten m
Yes, I can see 1/400th on my RB lenses, you should at least flower or ninja-star shape pattern in the shape of the leaf shutter at higher speeds, your lens is faulty, don't use it on the camera anymore unless you get it fixed, I had an RB lens (65mm C) that all the speedss above 1/15th were 1/15th, and I went to mirror return accidentally during a exposue at like 1/8th, right in the middle of it (normally this closes the shutter) but it destroyed the body as it jammed the lens on the body and the mirror stuck halfway.
Originally Posted by Katie