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  1. #21

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    I've always wanted to try a Hasselblad, veered away several times to Bronica/Mamiya MF's because I was afraid of the cost of lenses, backs and accessories. So if a casual shooter with a home darkroom and quite a bit of experience using Bronica SQ's and Mamiya RB's wanted to add a decent used Hasselblad, which of the 500 series would you gentlemen recommend as the most sensible and reliable model to look for that wouldn't totally bust the post-Santa wallet?

  2. #22

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    I think the best entry, for low cost, would be a 500C transitional body. They are the same as a CM, removable viewfinder screen, but still carry the C marking...not the CM marking. If you watch the 500C on ebay a lot of times the seller doesn't know enough about the camera to know it has the later screen feature.

    I've got all C series lens and couldn't be happier. You'll hear a lot of talk that parts aren't available for this series, but I've never seen anyone on here talk about having to throw away a lens because parts aren't available. Hasselblad may not have them, but there are a lot of parts in the field and some of the later springs can be replaced with slightly modified newer Hasselblad springs.

    This strategy has worked for me, YMMV

    Mike

    I try to buy low and send pieces to David Odess for a CLA to get me off on the right foot.

  3. #23

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    If you go with a C body, watch out for the very earliest bodies. I think 1957 and 1958? The guts of these bodies are different from later C's, and parts for these is an issue.

    Besides the year code they have a hole in the front plate, top left as you look at the front of the camera, that allows for access to a screw for service. Reason may not be right, but there is a hole there.

    You don't see many old C's around.

    Mike

  4. #24
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    From what I read many moons ago, the extra hole was for a removable winder, kinda like what's used on the 2000FCW and 503CW bodies. The winder was never made, though.

    The transitional bodies, also called 500C-C/M usually have serial numbers starting with the code UV or UH and, IIRC, came out in 1971, right before the official launch of the C/M body. For all intensive purposes, the transitional bodies are C/M bodies with the wrong model plate on them, so they wind up going for much less than the bodies marked C/M. The rear baffle doors sound the same as the ones on the C/M when the body is fired and the body has the same tabs that hold the screen in.

    With respect to jamming the camera, it's very rare. I think I've done it once when I was checking out a 150mm Sonnar on my first 500. Mainly just someone being an idjit and doing things wrong. I did once have to unjam my old 500EL to get the 80mm off it, since the camera was functionally dead.

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  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikebarger View Post
    Besides the year code they have a hole in the front plate, top left as you look at the front of the camera, that allows for access to a screw for service. Reason may not be right, but there is a hole there.
    The reason is indeed not correct. The holes were part of the mount for a planned add-on winder that never materialized (they made the EL series instead).

    P.S.
    See that John already gave that info. My apologies for the redundancy.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikebarger View Post
    You don't see many old C's around.
    That's the way it goes with old things. They are lost, put in boxes, stuffed away in cupborads, attics, etc.
    Does not mean that they have all died, nor that they will not be any good anymore. I have a bunch of old C lenses that still work perfectly good.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by dfoo View Post
    It didn't always occur, and I had to press pretty hard on the shutter button to get it jam
    Still, it wouldn't do so unless something (else) is not right.

  7. #27

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    QC, I wasn't clear... I meant not many first generation C bodies, with the hole. There are lots of second generation C bodies, a fair amount of transition bodies, and tons of C lens floating around.

    Mike
    Last edited by mikebarger; 12-29-2010 at 06:13 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #28

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    My bad, Mike.
    You're right, of course.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by dfoo View Post
    It didn't always occur, and I had to press pretty hard on the shutter button to get it jam

    Maybe if you press hard enough you get to bend or break the internal levers and get it jam. In that case, even if there was nothing wrong before, there will be something wrong now, that should require repair.

    Hasselblads and pretty hard don´t mix, never force anything

    Francisco

  10. #30

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    Q.G.
    I purchased the tubes, cameras and lenses new from Calumet about 15 - 16 years ago. When the first jam occurred the camera was sent back to Hasselblad whose technician told me it had happened to him as well and they replaced a part that had been changed because of some type of a flaw in that part. Obviously others were having a similar problem or they would not retool the part. The equipment was still under warranty at the time. It has jammed once or twice since with no explanation.

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