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  1. #1

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    Exakta 66 versus Bronica ETRSi?

    I currently have an Exakta 66 and a good condition 50 4 zeiss lens. Im getting some great results with the camera, abut the thing is just fricking HUGE. Its really hard to justify bringing it along with my D3. Originally I bought the 50 4.0 to use on my D3 for tilt photography with an adapter - does anyone know if I can do the same with the bronica lenses? I really like 6 x 6 but I suppose I could possibly downsize to the 6 x 4.5 of the bronica

    Also, how do the lenses on the bronica system and the pentacon system compare? The main reason I invested in an Exakta 66 is there seems to be a lot of good quality Zeiss glass for pretty cheap - then again bronica gets leaf shutters.....

    edit: Id like to point out I want to use the camera mainly for landscapes and nature work, so I am also considering 6 x 7 and 6x 9 camera. I am on a very tight budget though (another reason I am considering selling the exakta).

  2. #2
    CGW
    CGW is offline

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    The Bronica ERTSi is a bargain now.

    If you want 6x7, look into the Mamiya RB system. Cheap, versatile, big, plentiful, swappable film backs, close-ups with bellows focusing.

  3. #3
    wiltw's Avatar
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    Bronica ETRSi lenses have a Seiko lens shutter/diaphram. The biggest trick is to get the lens to stop down for shooting! Somehow the ETR body can do it, but I have not figured out how to trigger it...mechanically or electrically. You'd have to figure that one out first.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiltw View Post
    Bronica ETRSi lenses have a Seiko lens shutter/diaphram. The biggest trick is to get the lens to stop down for shooting! Somehow the ETR body can do it, but I have not figured out how to trigger it...mechanically or electrically. You'd have to figure that one out first.
    It's quick and fairly simple.

    Here's the procedure:
    Start with the lens cocked. The pins on the back will be next to the green dots.
    Move the A/T lever to T.
    Look at the back of the lens. You will see the word "JAPAN" or "SEIKO".
    Look at the lens mount, to the right of that word, about level with it. You will see a small chrome lever projecting outward slightly.
    Push that in and while holding it in, move the pins on the back through their entire arc (clockwise) until they stop.
    That will stop down the aperture and open the shutter, which will stay open until the T/A lever is moved back to A.

    To restore normal function and allow the lens to be mounted on the Bronica, move the T/A lever back to A and move the pins all the way back to the cocked position, next to the green dots (the chrome lever on the mount does not need to be pushed in for this part).

    That's it!
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  5. #5
    wiltw's Avatar
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    Thanks very much, lxdude. That worked for PE lens. Finally, I can mount the ETRSi lenses on my Horseman monorail (customized lensboard with Bronica ETR mount) and mount my Canon d*g*t*l camera on the back (with another customized lensboard) and be able to shoot.

    And what about the MC lenses which lack the A/T lever?

  6. #6
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiltw View Post
    Thanks lxdude. That worked for PE lens.

    And what about the MC lenses which lack the A/T lever?
    They should all have an A/T lever. My MC's all have one; the only difference is the metal retaining pin has a slot and is screwed in and out instead of being pulled out and pushed in as on the PE's.

    If an E or MC lens did not did not have one, or if it did not function, the DoF preview lever could be held in by securing a zip-tie around the lens. The manual says not to change the aperture with it held in, though.
    Last edited by lxdude; 02-10-2011 at 05:57 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  7. #7

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    If the Exakta 66 is too big, then I can't see any 6x7 (let alone 6x9) system that would be better off. I love my 67II, but it's definitely bigger than an Exakta 66, and an RB/RZ is a friggin' monster. You might check out a Mamiya 7/7II, but that's probably outside your budget.

    In a related note, let me know if you want to rid yourself of that bulky Exakta 66... I've been in search of a reliable Pentacon Six mount body for a while now ;-)

  8. #8

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    Am I supposed to get stop down style metering with this camera? Right now the viewfinder dims as I move the aperture - shouldnt it just stop down right when I press the trigger only?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kawasakiguy37 View Post
    The main reason I invested in an Exakta 66 is there seems to be a lot of good quality Zeiss glass for pretty cheap - then again bronica gets leaf shutters.....
    Its quite an expensive system for that it is - last i looked its not far off hassie money for a body, although lenses are cheaper. While they're not bad, think its fair to say the Zeiss Jena lenses aren't up to the standard of Zeiss Oberkochen (In terms of design, coating and quality control)
    I wouldn't expect the Zeiss Jena lenses to be anything too special, certainly you'll get a capable lens with the systems you've suggested

    One thing - your shooting 6x6 now - are you happy with this? Your looking at a variety of different formats, and my experience has always been finding the format I like and THEN working out what system I want

  10. #10

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    I do like 6x6, but I also like 6x7 and 6x9. Im not looking to go smaller than 6x6 as I have a D3 and for all normal purposes it takes amazing pictures. Hassie is appealing, but still a lot, lot more than Id be willing to afford....I bought this camera for a little less than $500 and I dont think I could possibly afford anything more expensive

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