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  1. #1

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    New sl66 coming my way

    Well, not new per se, but new to me. Can't wait to start shooting with it. I really haven't been so excited about a camera purchase in a long time, i've dreamed about this one . can anyone comment on the 120 s-planar vs. the 150mm sonnar? And HFT vs. Zeiss branded lenses?

  2. #2
    Wishy's Avatar
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    Please note the following NEVERs

    NEVER put an unwound back on a wound body (Or visa versa) - always always make sure they're in sync
    NEVER change the shutter speed after you've mirror lockup'ed
    NEVER do anything less than a full turn both ways. If your back isn't moving smoothly, it needs a service. Continue to try and fiddle with it and you'll end up with your back still needing a service and your camera needing some unlocking.

    Be careful with her and she'll treat you well. I love mine and wouldn't swap it for anything in the world. (I do augment however with a mamiya 6)

    My understanding is the Rollei and Zeiss made lenses are both of equally high standard. The coating on the HFT lenses is better than the non-HFT so in difficult light, sure there is a difference. But its a medium format camera and you will want to be using a hood anyway.
    Don't have any direct experience re the 120mm vs 150mm. The 120mm is apparently very sharp (but note that its f5.6, so some of that might be depth of field related, and some will be eroded by the fact its harder to focus). The 150mm is a bit softer and suits portraits better.

    A decent strap is worthwhile getting. Hoods are a must IMHO

  3. #3

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    Thanks! I will definitely keep all those in mind. another question, even though some lenses and accessories are listing as having the same bayonet mount, they seem to be described as fitting specific rollei mf slr bodies. for example, sometimes i see bay vi lenses specified for slx bodies on sale but sl66 lenses are in another category even though they have the same bay vi mount. why is this? they will not mount interchangeably on rollei mf bodies right?

  4. #4
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    You are mistaking the filter bayonet VI.

    In terms of SL66 lenses, only 6 came in HFT and non-HFT. Here is a good summary http://www.sl66.com/pg/HFT_coating.shtml
    Last edited by ic-racer; 04-18-2011 at 03:57 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #5

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    derp, i should've realized that. don't know what i was thinking. This is an amazing site kudos to whoever started it, i've been clicking through it for the past couple days. hadn't seen that link though, thanks!

  6. #6
    Wishy's Avatar
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    Yup, bay6 will allow you to interchange hoods and reverse the lens, but its also got a specific bayonet

    You can't use the SLX, or later 6006/6008 PQ lenses on the SL66

  7. #7
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Enjoy. My favorite camera by far. Was influenced years ago by Barry Thornton to go the SL66 route.

    Personally, at least for the 80 Planar, I like the non-HFT better for portraits and macro. Something about the more moderate contrast I like (but by no means "flat"!). Though even for landscape work it's perfectly fine. I have both the HFT and the non-HFT 80 so have been able to compare them directly. The rest I have (50, 120-S, 150 and 250) I shoot with hoods and have never felt "darn, wish I had the HFT version!". The 120-S vs. the 150 is hard to say, they are both no slouches though the 150 is much easier to focus I feel. The newer 120 Macro-Planar is touted as being superior to the 120-S but I've never used the former so cannot say. Most of my macro work is using the 80 Planar alone, with extension tubes, or reversed.

    One thing to watch for on these babies is the bottom metal "triangular" tripod plate. Many older ones have loosened some and according to some repair people I've spoken to the only way to tighten them at that point is a jury-rigged drill and pin install to tighten everything up. Though that said one of my SL66 bodies (I have three) is loose like that and I ratchet down a quick-release plate to the bottom before mounting onto the tripod and that seems to take care of that issue.

    Recently I bought an adapter to allow use of large-format lenses with #0 Copal shutters. Have not had a chance to make much use yet but it's one of the bennies of this system!

    Here's my SL66 set on Flickr, feel free to check them out:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rich815...7600025526149/

  8. #8
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cinema View Post
    derp, i should've realized that. don't know what i was thinking. This is an amazing site kudos to whoever started it, i've been clicking through it for the past couple days. hadn't seen that link though, thanks!
    That would be Mr. Sean Ross, assisted by some very good volunteer moderators.
    Click the FAQ up on the left to find out more.
    And welcome!
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  9. #9
    Wishy's Avatar
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    Instead of one of the commercial copal 0 options I concerted a loose part of a bellows set (bought on its own, didn't split it!) to a 77mm filter thread.
    I've the converted a number of random doublets, projector lenses, etc for the same 77mm thread, and given the SL66 has a focal plane shutter all is good Certainly allows some qwerky images.

  10. #10

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    [QUOTE=rich815;1168858] Was influenced years ago by Barry Thornton to go the SL66 route.

    Same exact story for me. What a great camera! I'm sure you will enjoy shooting with it. Follow the words of advice and wisdom given so far and you won't have any problems with it.

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