I've been surprised by how accurate the meter is on my Yashicamat 124, surprisingly reliable. I had no problem getting a battery replacement, not sure what it is as the camera's in Turkey and I'm back in the UK.
So for the cost it's worth a try you might be surprised. There's a couple of contacts that can play up they change the resistance for different ISO settings and is/was a known problem which was why Yashica later Gold plated them in the 124G.
Actually just like Roger Cole I was using my Lunasix or Luna Pro SBC alongside the Yashica and noticed the readings were the same
Last edited by Ian Grant; 05-14-2011 at 11:35 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Timely. I took my 124G for an outing last week and used a Sekonic L508 in spot mode. I'd forgotten how nice a picture this camera can make, so I played around with replacing light seals and checking out the meter. Various web sources recommended the 625 1.5V family of batteries (the pre- and suffixes vary with brand). I found a Varta V625U at my local watchmakers and spent some time with the Yashicamat, the Sekonic and a Voigtlander VC Meter II comparing recommended exposures.
My less than expert conclusion was that the Sekonic as a spot meter was best for wide exposure ranges and contrasty situations, but that for relatively flat subject brightness ranges all 3 meters were comparable for everyday use.
Measuring an evenly lit wall in full sunlight all 3 meters gave the same reading.
I would myself ignore all the hairsplitting comments about true replacements for the original 1.35V mercury batteries, 1.5V doesn't seem to make a lot of difference.
I found that the switch which activates the 124G when the viewer hood was raised was somewhat lazy, but a few up and downs has cured it (I have no idea where the switch is located and I do not choose to look for it)
Regards - Ross
More then one F stop, so not very acurate I would say at least.......
1.5V doesn't seem to make a lot of difference
The Yashica Mat 124-G is not using a Wheat Stone bridge in the electronic circuit so you need a stable 1,35V source.
Mostly cooties, but sometimes the CDS cell will die, sometimes a cold solder joint, sometimes corrosion on the wire from the battery to the circuit board.
Sometimes just bad Karma.
Many of the older cameras used a bridge circuit and weren't very sensitive to voltage differences.