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The film hasn't dried yet but it looks like success! So now you know what a bad dark slide seal looks like, and bad back hinge/lock seal looks too. Everything looks pretty clean now. Thanks! It cost me under $2.00 for the foam and felt. I cut the foam and felt on my paper cutter to get nice even slices. Time to test the other back now. And I still have to deal with the mirror, but its not leaking quite yet. Now I can take pictures!!
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Hmm. I've still got something going on. I don't see any fogging per se, no silver/gray/black, but there is still a faint purple density that goes from the bottom up to about 1/2 inch from the top edge. It looks much like the photo in post 208 above, but very faint, and only pinky-purple. Maybe it's a developing issue, but I'm not sure why it wouldn't go edge to edge if it was. I've been using a pre-rinse for 1-2 minutes and fixing in plain sulfite-hypo fix for 5-6 minutes, in a plastic Yankee tank. The tint doesn't bother me-the fact that it's not uniform across the film does...
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The pink tint suggests insufficient fixing - maybe you didn't use enough fixer to completely immerse the film. Either that or else your agitation technique did not circulate the fixer enough.
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I have an RZ67, which is a more battery-dependent successor to the RZ. I like it a lot, but if I already had a 4*5, I'd be more tempted to get a roll-film back for the 4*5 to combine the advantages of movements with the relative economy of 120 film.
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 Originally Posted by TheFlyingCamera
The pink tint suggests insufficient fixing - maybe you didn't use enough fixer to completely immerse the film. Either that or else your agitation technique did not circulate the fixer enough.
This has me thinking about the previous rolls I developed where there was obvious silver in the area that is now just pink. Those rolls also had a clear area with no silver or pink, which might be from uneven fixing at the bottom or top of the tank. When I went to develop my most recent roll that showed pink but no silver, I realized I had used only 50% of the correct amount of hypo in the fix. I used the correct amount (about 1:4 by volume) on that last roll. I don't usually use plain fix on film, but I'm too poor to buy rapid fix. I've been agitating for 30 seconds initially and 5 seconds every 30 seconds.
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Originally Posted by landscapepics
I have an RZ67, which is a more battery-dependent successor to the RZ. I like it a lot, but if I already had a 4*5, I'd be more tempted to get a roll-film back for the 4*5 to combine the advantages of movements with the relative economy of 120 film.
I'm still in the early phases of learning where and when the RB can do what I want to do. You're onto something though, there have already been times when I wished I had movements of my LF cameras. I think its safe to say I've taken them for granted, because they have always been there for the last 30 years. But there may be a place for the RB, I just need to shoot more to find out what it is. I may end up going the way you suggest, way too early to say. Its a fun camera so far.
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are any RB67 shutters interchangeable with more than the exact focal length they come with, or is each shutter assembly unique to one and only one focal length?
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It's very difficult to remove the shutter from an RB lens. I tried. Very hard! You don't want to try interchanging  Well.... I did think about trying that operation for the RZ 110 lens but never got around to it.
APUG member Erie Patsellis has done all manner of adaptations of RB lenses to 4x5 and so forth. I am low tech, I just slap an RB or RZ lens onto a lensboard and hand shutter it.
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Don't the front and rear lens elements just screw in to the shutter?
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