Oh my! So many replies so soon.
I will try to test it as soon as I can. I'm most worried about offending him by offering too little. I am very poor at striking deals.
Also, do they still make compatible flash guns?
It takes a PC connection flash, which means you can hook about anything up to it. I use my C with white lightning studio flash. If you have some sort of flash that uses a PC cable (or a shoe adaptor to provide the PC cable link), that would be good for testing that feature of the camera.
A dealer won't be personally offended by a low offer, but might try harder to work you up to a bigger price.
Trading some junk is always an option. I traded a box of old cameras that probably didn't work or didn't work well for a big set of rolleiflex bay-I filters. (Fits my yashica-c and rolleiflex) I got something useful out of it, and he got a bunch of things to clean up and sell.
What happens if the flash isn't set to X when the self timer is started?
I don't think I would go for that camera. I sold mine for $25, and all it needed was a shutter repair that you or I could do with online instructions. It was pretty clean cosmetically. When I priced them on E-Bay before putting it up for sale, it seemed like they were going for no more than $100 in super nice condition, and for an average of $50 or $60.
As much as I like to support local shops, they can often be very, very, VERY far out of touch as far as pricing goes.
"Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."
- Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)
I got my YasicaFlex C for ~$20 bucks, very good cosmetic condition, but the shutter was sticky, I took off the front element to and fixed it. Self timer is busted, it swings freely, but hey I would never use it anyway. never tried the flash sync.
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If you look at the casing at the upper left, where the lever with the red dot goes out, you'll see a double thickness of wall to the right of that lever. Ideally, when the flash sync is set to M, the inner 'wall' slides up and blocks the self-timer lever (red dot) from being moved.
I don't understand what happens. I do know that the blue steel spring clip noted in that photo gets bent in a bad way. The one time I had to deal with this (on a D, not that it matters), I gutted most of the self-timer and simply gave the guy a camera without one.
Simply don't tempt fate. Get a chunk of plastic or cardboard and block off the sync lever from moving. When I open up a front for shutter cleaning, I break that lever off. It can be slid back and forth with a small screwdriver in the slot, but I have no worries about it being bumped, about handing it to someone and having them do the classic, 'So what's this lever.... oh... oops..." move
Last edited by Dan Daniel; 08-25-2011 at 12:49 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Oh, Note to self, double check flash when using self timer, and never let someone else use the camera...
Are there any querks about this model I should be aware of?
Well, maybe I should say quirks other than the self timer issue.
Well, this says more about me than about the camera, but I made a mistake in winding when I first used one. I would push the button in the middle of the wind know and then HOLD IT IN while I started to wind. Nope, wrong!! Simply push the button in and let go, THEN wind. I'm not sure what had me doing it the other way, holding it in while starting to wind, since people I have mentioned this to seem confused that I would even try such a thing. Anyway, push, release, wind.
And best to settle on a pattern for winding the film on cameras with no double exposure prevention system. I simply ALWAYS wind right after a shot to avoid confusion.
There is no cable release. You need a 'Leica nipple' or Nikon nipple.
Get a lens hood. Use it. The Yashicas are prone to flare and fog. For another source for flare, kill reflections on the inside of the film chamber. Here's what I did-
Yashica TLRs are known for oil condensing on the front of the back element set. With a little courage and patience, it's easy to clean off-
The Yashica-D is a nice camera. Much simpler than the 'Mats in the wind mechanism. Yet pretty much the same camera- same focus rails, basic body casting, hood, etc. Light. Probably the best value in a 'quality' TLR if you get one in decent shape and at a decent price.
There are so many Yashica TLRs out here, try not to get attached to just one. If the one in your hand isn't working or such, there will be another one along soon. I found them great cameras for learning repair and 'deconstruction' with, since they are cheap enough that I could take the chance, but built well enough to actually learn something.
Last edited by Dan Daniel; 08-25-2011 at 12:27 PM. Click to view previous post history.
For filter and lens hood, S5 bayonet can be hard to find, I used silicon to gule a S VI filter adaptor to the taking lens, has 2 rings, a S VI filter fits in the sandwich and a lens shade screws into the front. The silicon will pell away, need to be very careful so you dont any in the shutter.