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  1. #11
    michaelbsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian C View Post
    In addition to the shaman, I’ve heard that it also helps to sacrifice a d-camera on a barbecue grill at the rising of the full moon.
    No need to wait for a full moon. The sooner the better. Then do another on the full moon.
    Michael Batchelor
    Industrial Informatics, Inc.
    www.industrialinformatics.com

    The camera catches light. The photographer catches life.

  2. #12

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    Mar 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by jovo View Post
    After years of enjoying my C220, I decided to add a C330 and bought a used one from KEH. Lately, I've had disastrous results with negatives so out of focus that they almost qualify as high order fine art gallery bait! But, I can not figure out what is going on. On a typical roll, several negs may be sharp, but the rest will not be. I use a tripod, focus carefully, and stop down to at least f22. I think I turn the dial to the correct setting for each lens I use, and the problem seems to be independent of my lens choice, as it occurs with any of them (55, 80, 135). Any ideas about what the problem might be?
    I had exactly the same problem with a used C330 I got from KEH. I did a little digging and found out about the foam gaskets that are supposed to position the ground glass.

    You want to take the finder off the top of your C330 and disassemble it. Likely you'll find the remains of the gasket foam. Mine was crumbly and sticky. I scraped it out with a fine straight screwdriver then cut replacement foam from stuff I picked up at the craft store. I don't recall what glue I used but it was a craft glue. Reassembled and a) my ground glass stopped rattling and b) my shots are in focus.

  3. #13

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    You mention you always use the prism finder on your C330. do you get the same unsharp results using the waist level finder?...This should determine whether or not your problem's with the prism finder or the body.

    One other point.....you mention you always shoot at f22.....why is this?.....It's just that I don't know of any lenses that perform near their best at this small aperture. I'm not saying this is responsible for your problem, but it might add to it.....On my C330's I try never to shoot at a slower aperture than f11...this setting and f8 give best results on my Mamiya lenses.

  4. #14

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    From my files , results of a fairly rigorous test,using Tech Pan film, a USAF test chart,Zeiss 100x microscope,etc.
    Optimum aperture first,then next best aperture.
    All black lenses : 55mm/4.5 : 8,11...........80/2.8 : 11,8..............105/3.5 :8,11...........135/4.5 :8,11...........180 Super/4.5 :5.6/8
    250/6.3 : 11,8

  5. #15
    jovo's Avatar
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    I appreciate all your responses. I needed to use a Mamiya TLR, and decided to replace the light seals on my C220 after having taken the 330 apart, and found nothing wrong with the GG. But, I didn't trust it. To my astonishment, I got similar results with the 220, but only using the 135mm lens. Negs from the 80mm and 55mm lenses were fine. That was disheartening, but I decided to swap the viewing lens for the taking lens to see what that would uncover. No results yet as I haven't had time to experiment, and am now just using my P67 which is the better system, but not a light and flexible as the Mamiya. I'll let you all know what I discover. BTW, the one thing common to my use of the two bodies is the prism, but the OOF negs were only those with the 135mm lens so I'm hoping that will finally settle what's wrong. Here's a neg scan from the 80mm.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ramapoautumn2.jpg  
    John Voss

    My Blog

  6. #16

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    Oct 2011
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    Sounds like the viewing lens is out of alignment with the taking lens on your 135mm lens

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