Difference between Acute Matte Screen and Acute Matte 'D' Screen?
I am looking at two Hasselblads on eBay being sold by the same retailer. One is the 503CW, the other is the 501C/M.
Both are advertised as "BODY + PLANAR CB 80mm + A12 FILM BACK (INSERT AND SHELL MATCHING NUMBERS) + WAIST LEVEL FINDER + LENS CAP + STRAP... but the 503CW has an ACUTE MATTE SCREEN whereas the 501C/M has an ACUTE MATTE D SCREEN .
The 501C/M comes with the D screen. The 503CW comes with the 'standard' matte screen. Because of this, (I assume - and possibly condition?) the 501C/M is £200 more than the 503CW.
I have looked at http://www.hasselbladusa.com/product...cessories.aspx but all of the screens are referred to as D Matte.
So my question is this : What is the difference between ACUTE MATTE SCREEN and ACUTE MATTE D SCREEN and is it significant enough to merit the £200 additional cost of the 501C/M vs the more modern 503CW. In other words, which would you buy - older camera with D screen or more recent camera with standard screen?
According to Wildi in the fifth edition of The Hasselblad Manual, “Compared to the original Acute-Matte, the D-type screen is slightly more diffusing for stable exposure metering and the out-of-focus portions of the image are more blurred… the difference is small…”
I had to look this up because, even though I have used both types of screens, I have never noticed any difference.
The price difference does concern me. If both camera kits are in equal condition, the 503CW should be priced higher. The fact that the 501CM is considerably higher would indicate that it is in much better condition. Examine all the photos very carefully and try and spot any differences, and check the serial numbers for the dates of manufacture.
Strictly on the basis of what you have presented, I would get the 501CM.
Thanks Eric, for taking the time to find that detail from your book. That makes sense.
My friend RJ from LuxCamera said that he finds the original Acute-Matte easier to use than the D type. The type has better contrast etc apparatly but because of that it can make it harder to focus. I'll not worry to much about it I think.
It can be difficult to actually confirm a Acute-Matte screen by pictures. Except the D version with its 2 distinctive D-shaped notched.
A "D" over a "standard" Acute-Matte should not be £200.
Check the age of the bodies with the two letters in the serial number. (located lower middle in the plate towards the magazine)
You know the translation? VHPICTURES=1234567890. ER=1998 or SS=2000 and so on....
A good site for information: http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/
All well with you shopping!
And a Happy New Year to you all!
"and if you do it wrong, you'll end up with lager"
Does the ad say that they come with an acute matte screen? Or do you just think that they do cause they were sold with them originally (a lot of 501 got the better screens taken out for simple ones.
If you buy a Hassi - it really doesn't matter which model you buy - it's the condition that counts. There are a lot heavily used ones in the world with some problems- so make sure you can test them. (I have some and know what I am talking about...) Concerning the screen: You also should think about WHICH Acute-Matte screen you want: plain, Grid, split-image etc - this is more important than the difference between "D" or non-"D",
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Honestly speaking, i hate to use my Hasselblad 501CM because of the focussing screen, i have one came with the camera and i bought another one alone, both i think are Acute, but i think the second i bought separately is Acute Matte-D, but to my surprise and disappointment, both are not doing a great job, focusing the camera which each making me crazy, i can never tell if the focus is spot on and very difficult to be sure, my RZ focusing way is like a charm, i always can tell when the focus is dead on, but with Hasselblad i just hope/pray to be lucky that the focus is on as i want, and weird i bought that second Acute Matte-D screen according to many recommendations, but nothing help me at the end.
Tareq, does your screen have a split-image focussing device in the center of the screen? It has made a big difference for me.
Yes i have, but still i can't tell, i have to check it again, that split-image option is really great, like it on my Fuji 6x9 and Mamiya 7II, but will check out that Hasselblad again and see if there is something wrong with it.
Originally Posted by Trask