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  1. #11
    CGW
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    The problems first arose when I shot some images (dark dark room) with white wall in the back and I'm trying to take images of people in white clothing. Not fun for the camera meter. I noticed those images came out a bit drab (looked to be quite underexposed - more dark than they should be as in little highlight detail). I've tried to remedy by "exposure memory locking" but perhaps my metering is still off. I try to meter for the shadows.


    Yup. Delta 400 pushed to 1600. By muddy, I guess I mean that they lack even more detail than they should. I have properly exposed negs right next to them and the shadows just go. But even more than that, the highlights go as well - by "go", I mean that the image is just overall dark and drab.

    Hopefully I can post some examples tonight. Maybe I'm just more used to 60/40 center-weighted metering in my F90x.


    I usually take an incident reading in that kind of lighting. Failing that, you can use a gray card and shift over to manual rather than futz with the memory lock button and aperture priority.

  2. #12

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    I think that might just be my solution. I took the camera out for a spin today and the metering is pretty dead on (matches my sekonic incident reading, or very close to it). The day is grey overcast outdoors.

    Once I brought it in, I noticed it would read weirdly in extreme situations. And I think all my shots on my last roll were in very contrasts situations that probably threw off my meter. I think, after doing some reading, I'm probably not metering properly and possibly locking exposure on the wrong things.

    That being said, I will give it another go and see if i can post some scans tonight.

  3. #13

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    Alright, after further review of my negs, while my exposure has been off a bit here and there, it's been pretty harsh in some images. And I'm quite sure I didn't under expose those images quite so radically.

    Something tells me that some of these negs are also being exposed to light leakage?

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    Appreciate all the help!!

    Edit: forgot to add that I shot these all in "A" mode.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by dugrant153 View Post
    Alright, after further review of my negs, while my exposure has been off a bit here and there, it's been pretty harsh in some images. And I'm quite sure I didn't under expose those images quite so radically.

    Something tells me that some of these negs are also being exposed to light leakage?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Cupcakes-F3-85mm---18.jpg 
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ID:	44145

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Cupcakes-F3-85mm---24.jpg 
Views:	50 
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ID:	44147

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Cupcakes-F3-85mm---31.jpg 
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ID:	44148

    Appreciate all the help!!

    Edit: forgot to add that I shot these all in "A" mode.


    I'm not surprised you're getting underexposed pics. in these circumstances.....you need to understand there are limits as to what automatic exposure systems will do for you. Basically in the kind of situations you submit, you need to manually meter and expose to get an acceptable result...for instance, in your first picture, you'd have got a more accurate reading by going inside the building and metering the available light, then manually setting your camera accordingly.

    Also if you entrust the development of such pictures to a commercial lab., it's unlikely you'll get satisfactory results...you need to process yourself and use a developer suited to low light situations such as Microphen.

    There is much to learn about exposing in night time conditions, and you're not going to learn simply by relying on the camera's auto exposure system. They are calibrated to give satisfactory results in most average lighting conditions, and nightime exposures are anything but average.

    Suggest you hunt down a good photo book dedicated to night time exposure techniques.

  5. #15
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    Hi,

    Nothing is wrong with your F3. In this situation I would give maximum light possible to the film. For example if meter shows 1/250 @f2 --> I would shoot 1/60 @f2 in manual settings. It is better to overexpose in this situations (imho).

    regards,
    Last edited by darkosaric; 01-10-2012 at 08:48 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16

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    I develop my own film and received satisfactory results (even in the same lighting situations) in other frames. The issue is that these frames pop up out of no-where.

    Thanks for the heads up on exposure. I'm pretty familiar with how to expose night time exposures properly but still learning a lot as I go. The issue with the first frame is not so much the exposure (I actually intended it to look that way) but the black splotches coming out from the bottom of the image. That's supposed to be just an even exposure.

    While I suspect the third image is also my mistake (in terms of exposure), the issue for me is the black edges near the top and bottom.

    Strangely enough, it's only certain frames that are affected, not parts of a roll. This leads me to believe it's not my developing as such.

  7. #17
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    Those negs look like they show evidence of surge marks around the sprocket holes.

    This happens from over vigorous agitation.

  8. #18

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    Looking closely at your samples, they do seem to show uneven development which, as bruce suggests could be down to excessive agitation. One of the reasons I suggested you read up a bit on night photography is, there is such as thing as "reciprocity failure" with film when it comes to low light exposure....this is most commonly associated with colour film, but I find it applies also (albeit to a lesser extent) with black & white. Basically what it means is that you often have to give approx. double the exposure that your meter suggests when it comes to longish exposures.....depending upon the shutter speed in use. It takes experimentation to find the right amount of compensation..(which will also depend on the developing technique). So long as you bear in mind that auto-exposure systems in cameras are a compromise, and you always need to modify your exposures in unusual lighting situations.

  9. #19

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    Thanks for all the tips. After all this, I think I will take my time to really learn the principles of exposure... This time on a more higher level now

    I think the Nikon F3's meter is narrower than what I'm used to and so it gets thrown off more so than the 60/40 CW metering I'm used to. Different way of working I suppose.

    That being said, I have my Sekonic light meter that hasn't really been in use. Now might be a time to ring it back into my photo workflow

  10. #20

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    Also I think I will need more dark room experience more to learn I suppose!

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