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  1. #1

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    Love my Nikon F3HP... but weird exposures??

    Hi everyone,

    I've been shooting with my F3HP and loving it so far. However, I find that I'm getting some weird exposures on some frames. I shoot black and white and the F3 does a pretty fine job in A mode most of the time. However, I find that the odd frame here and there turns out muddy in the blacks. Or, everything seems dark (as compared to a well exposed negative).
    I push my film to 1600 and expose at 1250ASA and I tend to lock exposure for the subject. Some frames are awesome, others... I think they look underexposed.

    I'm wondering if maybe there is a problem with the F3? Or (most likely) a problem with the way I'm shooting it? I know this has a slightly different 80/20 split for metering than most cameras and maybe that's throwing me off.

    (Sorry not at a comp with my pictures so can't show any samples. But I'll post some when I get home later today.)

    Any tips would be greatly appreciated

  2. #2
    CGW
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    Check your exposure comp. settings? I'd wonder about shutter speed variances but the quartz-timed shutter on the F3 seems to be near bomb-proof. The 80/20 "fat spot" pattern can be fooled but less often than typical 60/40 meters. Processing?

  3. #3
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dugrant153 View Post
    I expose at 1250ASA ... I think they look underexposed. Any tips would be greatly appreciated
    Do we really need to answer that or can you figure it out

  4. #4
    CGW
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    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    Do we really need to answer that or can you figure it out
    Hmmmm...

  5. #5

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    If I'm shooting at 1250ASA but developing at 1600, they should be slightly overexposed, ya?
    Or has my mornin tea not kicked in yet?

    On thing I realize also is that I set my ISO dial to 1600 but added a +1/3 exposure via the exp comp dial. I wonder ... could this be messing me up?

  6. #6

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    If most frames are good and only a few are underexposed, it would point to some kind of intermittent problem. You say you "lock exposure" -- if that means you meter the scene and then set shutter speed and aperture manually, the options for problems are aperture stopping down too far (unlikely) or shutter speed changing to a faster value than set. If it's a well-worn F3, perhaps the shutter speed is inconsistent? Easy to check.

  7. #7
    CGW
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  8. #8

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    OP is saying he/she is shooting in aperture priority and tends to lock exposure, presumably via the Memory Exposure Lock Button as there is no other way to lock exp. Have you verified that shutter speed in LCD display remains constant once Lock is depressed/held depressed despite changing composition/lighting? Any chance your finger didn't hold/retain Lock Button in fully depressed position? Will have to await sample images as they would be most helpful. How are exposures in manual mode?

  9. #9
    MattKing's Avatar
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    You are pushing your (400 ISO?) film to 1600, and you are concerned that your shadows are sometimes muddy?

    Sounds like some of the scenes you are photographing have enough light in the shadow areas to give you some detail, even if not enough detail to be "pleasing".

    For other, more typical scenes, I would assume that the shadows are dropping right out, giving you pleasingly black shadows.

    Unless of course you are using Diafine.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  10. #10

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    The manual? Have it?
    Yup. It's on my iPhone for reference. Took a quick read-thru but didn't find anything that could be the cause of my problem.

    Have you verified that shutter speed in LCD display remains constant once Lock is depressed/held depressed despite changing composition/lighting? Any chance your finger didn't hold/retain Lock Button in fully depressed position?
    I'll have to double check. Now that I think about it, since the grip of the F3 is a bit small for me, I may be inadvertently not-locking (exposure memory lock) my meter reading by slightly letting go of the button. I've shot this in manual mode before and don't recall there being a major issue.

    The problems first arose when I shot some images (dark dark room) with white wall in the back and I'm trying to take images of people in white clothing. Not fun for the camera meter. I noticed those images came out a bit drab (looked to be quite underexposed - more dark than they should be as in little highlight detail). I've tried to remedy by "exposure memory locking" but perhaps my metering is still off. I try to meter for the shadows.

    You are pushing your (400 ISO?) film to 1600, and you are concerned that your shadows are sometimes muddy?
    Yup. Delta 400 pushed to 1600. By muddy, I guess I mean that they lack even more detail than they should. I have properly exposed negs right next to them and the shadows just go. But even more than that, the highlights go as well - by "go", I mean that the image is just overall dark and drab.

    Hopefully I can post some examples tonight. Maybe I'm just more used to 60/40 center-weighted metering in my F90x.

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