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  1. #31
    Leigh B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by semi-ambivalent View Post
    ...one could increase the width of the projection by screwing the screw a little deeper into the projection, thereby taking up the slop. Very clever.
    That works in theory, but there are problems in practice.

    You'll find very few lenses that have uniform wear along the full length of the slot, just because of differences in the users who shoot them.
    Some people work mostly at close distances, others work mostly at long range, and others mostly at mid-range. Each will cause a different wear pattern.

    When you tighten the screw you'll find that it binds at some subject distances, while still exhibiting slop at others.
    It's possible to smooth and true up the slot with a die-sinker's file, but that's a lot of work.

    - Leigh
    Last edited by Leigh B; 06-08-2012 at 09:59 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” - Plato

  2. #32

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    A parts list would be awesome Christiaan, thanks man.

    I have no idea if this link will work:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/80071240@N04/

    Despite being in my twenties, I am horrible with computers.

  3. #33

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    Good point Leigh, I've had one or two do that. I have found that over tightening that screw can do that, which is why way back I said in 1 hour increments. Or less, really.

    Good set of photos. How much play are we talking about on this lens? Have you checked the brass keys screw tightness? Have you considered swapping the keys (not sure if same part, most likely is).

  4. #34

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    The screws holding the brass keys are tight—oddly, one of the keys has (unbroken) red sealant securing its screws but the other doesn’t. But neither of the keys wiggle at all relative to the tube they are attached to.

    I received a PM this morning from a fellow member who chastised and even scolded me a little. I deserved that. But he also went to great lengths to patiently explain that he felt that the helical grease in my sample is dry, which may be the cause of my woes. Additionally, he gave me a lot of useful tips and warnings. I didn’t ask permission to paste his message here, so I won’t.

    Even before I received his PM, I placed an order from Micro-Tools for #30 helical grease and some proper screwdrivers. I will wait until my order arrives before I resume this project.

  5. #35

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    Good point. I was going to suggest since you had it apart to do a cleaning of the helicoid threads and re-lube, that will for sure help. You may also want to try and loosen the brass key that does not have the sealant, there may be a slight amount of adjustment that could be made before tightening it up again. Get at 'JIS cross-point'.

  6. #36

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    Yeah, I've been researching the JIS; odd that the Japanese like to use screws that look like phillips but aren't.

    I managed to find a set at WW Grainger Inc., whom I often do business with. The ones I got are made by Moody Tools, which I've heard aren't great. We'll see.
    Last edited by LJSLATER; 06-11-2012 at 12:35 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #37
    Leigh B's Avatar
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    The difference between Phillips and cross-point is significant. It's the contour of the web, i.e. the intersection of the two flat blades set at 90°.

    On a cross-point screw the web is square. On a Phillips, it's rounded and tapered. The difference is apparent when you compare heads of the two types.

    All tiny cross-style screws are cross-point rather than Phillips. Using a Phillips driver on a cross-point screw will destroy the screw head.

    Moody is one of the principle manufacturers of small tools; been around for many years.

    - Leigh
    “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” - Plato

  8. #38

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    I was a little hesitant, but I decided to post an update. I have assembled and reassembled the outer-barrel so many times now, I could do it in my sleep. I received some really great instructions and advice for cleaning and regreasing the helical threads, which I followed. The focusing action was smoother afterward, but there was still “slop” or “play” when switching the direction of the focusing ring. And with the lens open, I could see that the slots and focusing keys were not mating properly—the keys jiggled back and forth with an audible clicking sound, even with a generous amount of helical grease applied to the slots that the keys travel in.

    So I tried swapping the keys. There’s no play at all now, not even the tiniest bit. My lens is back together and I’m happy.


    HKD_7904 by LJ Slater, on Flickr

    Thanks everyone for your input and for not being too harsh on a novice who risked ruining his lens to get to the bottom of a maddeningly bothersome problem.

    I still want to try the AI and pre-AI 1.2 Nikkors though….
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails HKD_7904.jpg  

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