normal, mundane, multiplicity manufactured, "rare" = ANY NIKON 50mm lens
I was at the Fort Washington, (PA) Camera Show put on by PHOTORAMA yesterday and bought ten (yes) Nikkormats, excellent condition, except for meter, for about $180 total. That is a good price until you consider that the normal lens needed to make those cameras viable are all too rare.
I never thought that I would say that a mainstream, normal lens could be rare but that is what I am saying, without equivocation, here. I did manage to buy one 1.8/50 Series E with stiff focus (will take about 2 hours taking it apart to make it sing) for $10 but that was that. The others were about $50 each, even if "with prong".
Digital 'did it' by allowing the Nikon mount to be adaptable for DSLRS, right? But cannot M42 lenses also be adapted? These are a dime a dozen, for cheap. In fact both M42 and Minolta (PF, MC, MD) are the cheapest lenses around. Are they not also adaptable for digital? Their optical quality is tops.
My frustration with my naked Nikkormats needs to be placated. As a spoiled brat, who suddenly became "entitled" when digital achieved hegemony (and threw its lowly subjects out to pasture) I need to find a cheap, source of marginal Nikon normals that will not scare me away with price. - David Lyga
Plain old 50/2 Ai lenses are probably the cheapest of the lot--50/2 NAI are cheaper. Bizarrely, I've seen mint 50/1.8E lenses attached to FG/EM/FG-20 bodies go for less than OK condition lenses alone.
Problem is, on DX Nikon DSLRs, these work out to a nice portrait length of 75mm. Faster 1.8 and 1.4 50s are nice on M4/3 cameras and the newer Sony NEX bodies. Right now, older film bodies sell, as you discovered, for very little relative to lenses unless they're collectible.
I'll take the 'plain, old cheap ones'. They, for the past year or so, are sparse. But the SRT and Spotmatic and TLB are also cheap and normal lenses readily available. There is truly a 'mystique' about Nikon glass, really unwarranted when compared with the rest. - David Lyga
I have a nai 50 H with some fungus.
I shot it and it was fine to my eyes in those particular conditions but who knows.
If you want it cheap make me an offer.
On ePrey its cheaper to get one connected to a Nikkormat than to buy one by itself.
Nikon glass is probably the best solution if you want to put it on a Nikon and the Minoltas - I would love to adapt mine to an EOS3 but it doesn't work, the lens register is too short.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
Nikon lenses have more uses than the bodies, as you've noted, they easily adapt to canon eos as well, interesting to dslr video folks especially. Look at the prices for OM lenses these days. What ever are you planning for 10 nikkormats?
Try sourcing older 35mm lenses. On APS-C DSLR's they are closer to the 50mm "normal" and have become rarer than hen's teeth.
I haven't had a problem finding Nikon 50mm's, I own three of them and paid next to nothing.
The 50 1.4 pre-AI was 40 (Came with free Nikkormat FT2) my Series E 50 1.8 came with an FG for 20 and I rescued a poor old beaten 50/2 pre-AI for 20 from an antique shop and got it back into shooting shape. I use it regularly.
The 50 1.4's seem to be commonplace here and rarely sell for more than 50 or 60, I'm actually having a hard time finding Canon EOS glass that isn't off a Rebel or some other junk lens, which makes sense because a lot of the digisnapper high school kids snatch them up.
5x7 Eastman-Kodak kit / B+M 135mm Zeiss Tessar + Compur Deckel
RB67 Pro S /50 4.5 / 90 3.8 / 180 4.5 / WLF / prism finder / polaback
FED-2 / 50 2.8 Industar 26m / 85 f2 Jupiter-9
Canon 300v / A2
Don't buy into the stupidity. Here's a perfect example:
Just use normal lenses that are not the absolutely fastest but close enough. 50/1.4 comes to mind.
Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.
There's no shortage of early Ai and pre Ai normal lenses; I don't know where you are looking. The meter problem in many Nikkormats lies in the switch, which is under the advance lever. Remove the lever, drag some rough paper between the contacts of the switch, and seven or eight out of ten will come back to life.
Originally Posted by David Lyga