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  1. #11
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    Wonder why they are so expensive?
    Seems exorbitant to me.

  2. #12
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brucemuir View Post
    Wonder why they are so expensive?
    Seems exorbitant to me.
    Without knowing what the production cost and how hi-tech they are are it's impossible to tell what the profit margin is, but they are excellent see here http://www.morco.uk.com/latest/beattie.htm, but if you want one you have to pay the price.
    Last edited by benjiboy; 03-11-2012 at 09:08 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Ben

  3. #13
    pstake's Avatar
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    Well ... I ordered one. Will post my impressions in a few weeks.

    I'm sure I could find other places to spend the $135 USD but being able to focus quickly in any light is the prime mover for me. Contax viewfinders are reputedly very bright to begin with but I've almost never used anything else for comparison. I used a Pentax 6x7, seven or eight years ago, on which I missed focus frequently, except when I had a lot of time for set up (ie. architecture / trip-pod work) ... and I had a Pentax Spotmatic SP II just for fun, which had a dismal, dark viewfinder. In low light I always seemed to be guessing.

    But my primary camera has always been a Contax and I've always had fairly good luck with focusing but for most of that time I lived in larger cities / urban areas where a guy can get away with street photographing mostly unnoticed, even if he fiddles with the focus a few extra seconds.

    Now I'm living in rural midwestern America and I find that when I'm taking street photos, I need to be quicker in order not to make people uncomfortable, even if they consent to having their photos taken beforehand. Being able to slide it into sharp focus, quickly, release the shutter, and move along, is my end goal ...

  4. #14
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pstake View Post
    Well ... I ordered one. Will post my impressions in a few weeks.

    I'm sure I could find other places to spend the $135 USD but being able to focus quickly in any light is the prime mover for me. Contax viewfinders are reputedly very bright to begin with but I've almost never used anything else for comparison. I used a Pentax 6x7, seven or eight years ago, on which I missed focus frequently, except when I had a lot of time for set up (ie. architecture / trip-pod work) ... and I had a Pentax Spotmatic SP II just for fun, which had a dismal, dark viewfinder. In low light I always seemed to be guessing.

    But my primary camera has always been a Contax and I've always had fairly good luck with focusing but for most of that time I lived in larger cities / urban areas where a guy can get away with street photographing mostly unnoticed, even if he fiddles with the focus a few extra seconds.

    Now I'm living in rural midwestern America and I find that when I'm taking street photos, I need to be quicker in order not to make people uncomfortable, even if they consent to having their photos taken beforehand. Being able to slide it into sharp focus, quickly, release the shutter, and move along, is my end goal ...
    For street shooting I use hyper focal distance shooting with a moderate wide angle lens then you don't need to focus or even with practice put the camera up to your eye and still get a very high proportion of in focus shots.
    Last edited by benjiboy; 03-11-2012 at 12:43 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Ben

  5. #15

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    I have one for an OM, and believe the original Olympus screens are just as good. If anything, the split screen focus is easier to use on the OEM screens.

  6. #16

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    I had one installed in my medium format Rolleiflex. It's very bright, much brighter than the original Rollei screen, and the picture nicely snaps into focus. Overall I'm happy with it. The only downside, if there is one, is that if the sun falls directly onto it - which does happen with the waistlevel finder - there is considerable flare, so I have to manouver my head the block direct light.

  7. #17
    sandermarijn's Avatar
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    I received a (free) Beattie w/ grid & split image for my F801s a while ago. While I have no trouble focusing with the standard Nikon screen (type B), I was hoping for more accuracy with the split image when using large aperture lenses.

    The Beattie left me a bit disappointed. While it is bright, it has less 'snap' than the Nikon screen, and the split image darkens easily (also with large aperture lenses). The split image in my Canon EOS cameras (OEM Canon) is much much easier to use and looks better made as well.

    The Beattie screen is probably quite old (90's?) and may not be representative of current Beatties, I don't know.

  8. #18
    pstake's Avatar
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    Well ... I actually took the plunge and put one on my RTS II. My impression so far is the same as your, Sandermarijn. It's VERY bright and VERY clear, but less snap than the original. Will be using RTS II as my main camera for a while, and will report back here about my impressions as I get more used to it.

  9. #19
    sandermarijn's Avatar
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    I forget to mention that my Beattie screen (w/ grid & split image) threw off the F801s' meter by about -2.7 stops (!) on average. That's alright, sort of, but the deviation wasn't constant over a range of scenes (I checked against an F801 with the standard Nikon screen), which *is* bad. The split image must have been doing some non-linear messing with the meter (that I suppose is in the prism somewhere).

    Fortunately it didn't cost me, otherwise I would have been pretty pissed (with myself, mostly ).

    ps. Sorry about your disappointment pstake. Those original screens might not be that bad after all. Pity that you found out the hard way.

  10. #20
    Rol_Lei Nut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandermarijn View Post
    I forget to mention that my Beattie screen (w/ grid & split image) threw off the F801s' meter by about -2.7 stops (!) on average. That's alright, sort of, but the deviation wasn't constant over a range of scenes (I checked against an F801 with the standard Nikon screen), which *is* bad. The split image must have been doing some non-linear messing with the meter (that I suppose is in the prism somewhere).

    Fortunately it didn't cost me, otherwise I would have been pretty pissed (with myself, mostly ).

    ps. Sorry about your disappointment pstake. Those original screens might not be that bad after all. Pity that you found out the hard way.
    Sounds a bit similar to how Nikon H and G screens require different exposures for different lenses (and/or different types of H & G screens).
    How the Leicaflex SL manged to avoid such problems is a real wonder and one I'd love to hear an informed explanation for....
    M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa

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