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  1. #1
    cliveh's Avatar
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    What’s your system?

    When I have exposed a 35mm film and rewound it, I tear off the leader, so there is no confusion with that and an unexposed film. Do others have a system to differentiate between exposed and unexposed 35mm film?

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  2. #2
    Rick A's Avatar
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    My 135 films go into canisters marked "exposed". My 120 films do so as well. For 4x5 I have a plastic zip lock baggie marked "exposed". When I get them home they all get processed immediatly.
    Rick A
    Argentum aevum
    BTW: the big kid in my avatar is my hero, my son, who proudly serves us in the Navy. "SALUTE"

  3. #3
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    I'm shooting for the most absurd and insane answer to your question...

    I open the camera back and draw a pencil line at the film gate opening. Then I pull out the cartridge and stretch until the rest of the film is out and cut at the tape. I attach a piece of electrical tape to the end, push the rewind button on the camera, pull out the film from the camera, tack the electrical tape to the end of the sensitometer and stretch the film across making sure not to go past the pencil line. Then I fire off a test strip, and dangle the film around while I look for a metal reel to spiral it onto. Winding is a bear because the curl is the wrong way when I put the tail end in the center of the spiral. I want the sensitometry strip in the center so it doesn't get uneven development (it ends up getting uneven (more) development at the end anyway - big "bump" in the curve).

    Sorry, couldn't resist -- I did this twice Saturday.

    Normally, I just rewind it all the way.

    In the darkroom I usually pop the cap off and hold the spool in the palm of my hand and snip the leader. I reel film onto the metal spiral as the spool unrolls in my hand. Always seems to go right on this way.

  4. #4
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    I snip the leader a special way if Im in studio or home and have scissors.
    When in the field I flip the leder back the oposite way in the canisters.
    I have all my AF canon's set to leave the leader out a bit.
    For my contax RF I can hear/feel when the leader pops off the rewind spool and leave some leader showing.

    I have a bunch of nikon reloadable cassetes for my F/F2 and for those I just rewind inside the cassette because you can open them easily in the DR.

    For 120 its obvious when a roll is exposed but I keep them in these black cans you can get from Freestyle
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  5. #5
    flatulent1's Avatar
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    All my unexposed 35mm films are in their little plastic cans (in a ziploc baggie) with their little tongues hanging out.
    At the end of the roll I let the film rewind all the way into the cassette, then drop the thing into the camera bag. I don't even look for the plastic can. I never, ever leave the leader out; if it's color I let the lab screw with it. If it's something I'm going to process myself I don't want to be drawing it back through the fuzzy light trap yet again, you never know when a little bit of grit is going to lodge itself in there and scratch my film.

    120 is always preloaded onto an insert before I leave the house, which is placed in its plastic case or spare film back (the insert, not the house). When the roll is done I either a) remove the roll and put it in a black plastic 120 film keeper, or 2) slip the insert back into its plastic case and get it mixed up with the others.
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  6. #6
    benjiboy's Avatar
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    I make sure I wind the leader completely in the cassette so it's impossible to reload it then stick a red adhesive label on the cassette on which I write "Exposed" with a Sharpie then I put it back in the plastic case it came in.
    Ben

  7. #7
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    Yup me too. Wound all the way in, sharpie to jot down whatever I exposed it at, be it push or pull. Sometimes with cameras that dont have a film reminder window or card slot, I stick a piece of gaffer tape on the back or side, and jot with a silver sharpie the load date, and type of film and iso, and I cross it out when I rewind/reload.

    With 120, I wrap it tight, lick and stick. I also jot info on it really lightly on the band. I had tried a user tip to pre-roll 120 paper leader onto another spool and rubber band it, to speed up loading time, but I'm never in that much of a rush so I stopped doing that after the 1st time. could be useful for others tough.

  8. #8
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Burk View Post
    I'm shooting for the most absurd and insane answer to your question...

    I open the camera back and draw a pencil line at the film gate opening. Then I pull out the cartridge and stretch until the rest of the film is out and cut at the tape. I attach a piece of electrical tape to the end, push the rewind button on the camera, pull out the film from the camera, tack the electrical tape to the end of the sensitometer and stretch the film across making sure not to go past the pencil line. Then I fire off a test strip, and dangle the film around while I look for a metal reel to spiral it onto. Winding is a bear because the curl is the wrong way when I put the tail end in the center of the spiral. I want the sensitometry strip in the center so it doesn't get uneven development (it ends up getting uneven (more) development at the end anyway - big "bump" in the curve).

    Sorry, couldn't resist -- I did this twice Saturday.

    Normally, I just rewind it all the way.

    In the darkroom I usually pop the cap off and hold the spool in the palm of my hand and snip the leader. I reel film onto the metal spiral as the spool unrolls in my hand. Always seems to go right on this way.
    Pho wonder you ask Stephan Benskin so many questions.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  9. #9
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I just wind the film all the way in. If I'm taking notes, or if the sequence is important, I'll number the rolls.

    Why risk scratching the film by pulling it back through the light trap to process it? Otherwise, I don't see any reason to leave the leader out.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  10. #10
    Terry Christian's Avatar
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    Most of my 35mm comes in plastic canisters, of course, so when I'm done shooting a roll I put it back in my bag without a canister. That tells me the roll is exposed. If I've taken a roll from a box of several so that there's no canister, I leave the unexposed film in the box and then put the exposed film loose in my bag as usual. The same goes for 120. If I have special notes (push, etc.) for developing, I write them with a Sharpie on the roll.

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