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  1. #21
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    Sirius Glass: How so? Not sure how the scanner would be producing something that's appearing on the negative itself.
    One theory crashed and burned.

    Did you check to see if the pressure plate is pushing too hard on the film?
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #22

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    ^ Did you read the thread? Not meaning to sound bad, but I'm pretty sure I explained this in the OP. It could very well be the pressure plate. That's what the camera store thought and so they sent it off for the pressure plate to be completely replaced. But the lines still occur, albeit now they do seem smaller. It could've been the pressure plate, it could've been the rollers, it could've been a million and a half things. But I'm not going to spend chunks of change, replacing the camera bit by bit to find out. Much cheaper to just get a new camera. At this point I'm mostly just looking for camera suggestions and potential issues down the line with the photos I've already shot and how to fix it.

    Edit: F801. Just wondering, because of the age of this camera, would the autofocus still be up to snuff? I do a lot of street so I need quick, responsive, and accurate AF. The F80/65 worked fine, but they're newer tech, as would a F90(X)/F100/F75.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    Edit: F801. Just wondering, because of the age of this camera, would the autofocus still be up to snuff? I do a lot of street so I need quick, responsive, and accurate AF. The F80/65 worked fine, but they're newer tech, as would a F90(X)/F100/F75.
    The F801 and F801s are good enough for me in terms of AF. I use them centre point only and find them fast and accurate, even in comparatively low light (ordinary indoors). The difference with newer cameras is mostly in the fancy stuff that I never use, such as continuous AF, tracking and number & accuracy of focusing points.

    Keep in mind also that the F801(s) cannot focus AF-S lenses, VR is unavailable and G lenses only work in P and S modes.

    The F90(x) (I don't have this camera) should have better AF than the F801(s) and can focus AF-S lenses (not sure if in all modes though).

    But don't underestimate the F801(s); within the AF compatibility limitations it's actually my favourite Nikon.

  4. #24

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    Thanks !

    I don't mind that it doesn't work with AF-S/VR/G (does any film camera work with G lenses?). I never really use those types of lenses on film cameras (don't have many anyways) because they were built for digital SLRs with a cropped sensor, which leads to vignetting on film cameras. I shall definitely keep the F801 in mind because the store in B.C. has one so if the F90 is no good, the F801 might be good.

  5. #25
    sandermarijn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    (does any film camera work with G lenses?).
    Yes, many. Have a look at good old Ken Rockwell's excellent compatibility chart: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm

    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    I never really use those types of lenses on film cameras (don't have many anyways) because they were built for digital SLRs with a cropped sensor, which leads to vignetting on film cameras.
    I think you're confusing DX with AF-S. There are many FX AF-S lenses these days, from comparatively cheap to insanely expensive.

    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    I shall definitely keep the F801 in mind because the store in B.C. has one so if the F90 is no good, the F801 might be good.
    Be wary of the sticky back issue on the F90(x). From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F90:

    "However, many F90 and F90x's had problems with the rubberized back, where the rubberized coating would start peeling or turn into a sticky mess.[1] The rubber around the grip and other parts were not affected. This did not affect the functionality of the back but was a nuisance to users. The rubberised coating can however be removed (Once the door has been removed from the camera body) by rubbing with a microfibre towel or similar soaked in Isopropyl Alcohol. This procedure will remove the rubberised top coating without affecting the surface finish of the underlying plastic or the clear film viewing window. The white printed "Vari Program" icons will remain unaffected also."


    You could also try to get hold of an F100. They go for around 100 euros here in continental Europe (don't know where you are), which is not all that much more than the F90x. Get one with the newer rewind fork (the initial plastic version tends to break- Google search result link).

  6. #26

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    ^ Yeah, you're right, I was confusing AF-S and DX. So many terms and classifications it's hard to keep up sometimes. I think I meant that the G lenses wouldn't work with Manual focus cameras because it doesn't have that option. Is the F100 large though? I kinda want something smaller and less in your face. I remember reading about the sticky back issue with the F90, I'll be sure to ask the shop in B.C. if I can't get something locally. Thanks for reminding me! Oh, and I'm in Alberta (Canada).

  7. #27
    sandermarijn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    Is the F100 large though?
    Yes, it's noticeably larger than e.g. the F801s. On quick glance one may even mistake it for a larger DX or smaller FF digital SLR. I personally don't like that very much- makes me feel 'vulnerable' and obtrusive.

    The F801s has always seemed to me more dense, more elegant than the (in my eyes and hands!) somewhat 'airy', show-off F100. Most of that is personal of course.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    ^ Did you read the thread? Not meaning to sound bad, but I'm pretty sure I explained this in the OP. It could very well be the pressure plate. That's what the camera store thought and so they sent it off for the pressure plate to be completely replaced. But the lines still occur, albeit now they do seem smaller. It could've been the pressure plate, it could've been the rollers, it could've been a million and a half things. But I'm not going to spend chunks of change, replacing the camera bit by bit to find out. Much cheaper to just get a new camera. At this point I'm mostly just looking for camera suggestions and potential issues down the line with the photos I've already shot and how to fix it.

    Edit: F801. Just wondering, because of the age of this camera, would the autofocus still be up to snuff? I do a lot of street so I need quick, responsive, and accurate AF. The F80/65 worked fine, but they're newer tech, as would a F90(X)/F100/F75.
    YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I was being tactful by subtly pointing out that I had not seen that that the plate pressure repair was done.

    I will avoid being tactful in the future with you.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  9. #29

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    really wanna thank everybody again for their help.

    sandermarijn: Yeah, that's why I was originally wanting to steer clear of the F100. I do lots of street, so clunky is not what I'm looking for. F801(s) or F90(x) or F75 it is, then! When you mean accuracy of focus pts on the F801s, what do you mean exactly? Do shots come out of focus?

    Sirius: Don't worry about it .

    Does anybody have personal experiences with stuff like No-Scratch (where can you even buy it? Only place I saw was B&H...and only in-store) or skin oil (any particular type) to fix the line issue on existing negatives? How does it work and how effective is it? Is there any similar products to No Scratch which may be easier to find? Any other products other than what tkamiya mentioned that may help? There was also mention of being able to avoid the lines appearing from major scratches through a technique...what technique would that be to be clear (was it the skin oil)?

  10. #30
    sandermarijn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    When you mean accuracy of focus pts on the F801s, what do you mean exactly? Do shots come out of focus?
    I only have experience with using the centre points on all these cameras. Using those in ordinary light (say daylight or reasonably bright indoors) I find no difference (with my AF-D lenses and for my purposes) between the old F801s and e.g. the F100.

    The autofocus units in modern cameras are undoubtedly far more advanced than what's in the F801s, it's just that I don't ever exploit that difference, nor do I really know what the difference is. Different CAM modules, yeah, more advanced tracking this and that, more accurate cross type number of sensors- I just don't use it so don't notice its absence either.

    If you do lots of action, sports, extremely low light photography then no doubt the differences will be huge.

    Sorry that you don't seem to get the original issue resolved. I would still urge you to try another type of camera and be critical towards the scanning. Else I wouldn't know.

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