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  1. #21
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
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    No one has mentioned it but these AF bodies have such LOUD rewind motors. Might be a distraction or a bad way to draw attention depending on application. Also though not sure some bodies I know can delay the motordrive wind on I think as a custom function which is cool.

  2. #22
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    +1 on the F4. I own one, it's bullet proof. I love my FM3a a bit more (at least I carry it around more) but it doesn't have spot metering and is out of your stated budget.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Nielsen View Post
    What do I expect? Not a semi-pro body with such a ridiculously bad design.

    BTW, If you cut all the BS from KR's site, that leaves about half a paragraph

    My one also has a loud squeal from the autofocus. Not sure if it's a common problem but it drives me nuts.
    Well I have 4 and no squeal.

    As to lens needing to be locked at the smallest aperture, that's a requirement of Speed priority and full auto mode on all the later Nikons that I've seen.

    And yep, using later modle lenses, the ones with no aperture ring, takes away the ability to use aperture priority. So what, you gotta adjust the speed on occasion? This compromise is simply a product of the march of technology not flawed design, personally I happy as heck that it can control later lenses at all. And seriously, if that's a design flaw then we all need to trash our F's, FM's, Nikormat's, ...

    Sure, I do agree that the F5 and F100 have better controls and sure, they feel better in hand but they also cost considerably more. All 4 of my N90s's together cost less than what I could have gotten an F100 for, let alone an F5.

    Having multiple bodies gives me the advantage of being able to keep FP4 in one and Portra 160 in another and a spare body in the bag.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  4. #24
    i.candide's Avatar
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    After readong all the advice above, one question comes to mind...What type of photography are you interested in that requires spot metering? It is a tall order to get an affordable manual camera that does not have either center-weighted or average metering.

    i.candide
    Dangerous to oneself

  5. #25
    chuck94022's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newt_on_Swings View Post
    No one has mentioned it but these AF bodies have such LOUD rewind motors. Might be a distraction or a bad way to draw attention depending on application. Also though not sure some bodies I know can delay the motordrive wind on I think as a custom function which is cool.
    The F4 can be rewound manually. Mighty quiet that way.

  6. #26
    chuck94022's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by i.candide View Post
    After readong all the advice above, one question comes to mind...What type of photography are you interested in that requires spot metering? It is a tall order to get an affordable manual camera that does not have either center-weighted or average metering.

    i.candide
    Dangerous to oneself
    This question occurred to me too. I never spot meter with my 35mm cameras. I usually grab them when I want quick shots, and spot metering, for me, is usually a slower process. When I slow down for an image, the camera gets bigger (MF or LF) and the separate spot meter comes out.

    With 35mm, I trust the meter/automation more. I do sanity check things, but quickly. With the F4's matrix metering, it usually does just fine all by itself. I've had very, very few bad exposures with it. I never go to spot mode.

    With the FM3a, the center weighted meter is well balanced to measure the typical scene. Plus, and this is a big plus, the needle indicator is analog and constantly moves as you move the camera around the scene. Many have complained about its lack of a spot meter, but frankly I don't know how I would use it if it had it.

  7. #27
    fotch's Avatar
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    If I could only have one Nikon, it would be the F3. If I could have 2, I would add an F2. FWIW

    PS, my choice of F3HP, F3, F2, FE, FA, FM, FG, EM, Nikkormat EL, Nikondus III
    Last edited by fotch; 05-19-2012 at 08:31 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  8. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by konsomod View Post
    Hello,

    I have been shooting film for the past year and I am thinking it might be time to upgrade my gear once again. My budget is limited, and after considering a series of brands, I have decided I'll go for a Nikon body. I thought about Contax, but I wouldn't be able to afford Zeiss lenses, so would there be any point in getting a Contax body?

    So, what Nikon body would you reccomend? I have thought about the N90s, F801s. AF is not really a necessity but is always welcome. I need spot metering, and manual ISO setting.

    Thanks,
    - Miguel
    I'd go with an F and a handheld meter. Or I'd use my OM-3.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by fotch View Post
    If I could only have one Nikon, it would be the F3. If I could have 2, I would add an F2. FWIW

    PS, my choice of F3HP, F3, F2, FE, FA, FM, FG, EM, Nikkormat EL, Nikondus III
    Me too but the OP wanted spotmeter, AF is nice, Under 100 Euro and so the F3 doesn't qualify. I think the N90/F90 is the good choice for price/feature that the op is looking for. But I do feel the N90 period is a period when Nikon was lost and didn't really what they should do.

  10. #30
    Pumalite's Avatar
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    F90X fits the bill and it's dirt cheap.
    " A loving and caring heart is the beginning of all knowledge " ~ Thomas Carlyle ~

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