Bought lenses don't fit. Unusable?

[rich815]

Give him a chance

Ian

Sorry. I thought photos of the mount come later thought he might remember the wording on the lenses...

[Steven L]

Finally, pictures. (made with a digital camera, otherwise some of us would loose their patience. )
I've got a Sigma:




and a tokina:




and the original Revueflex lens:




I've been google-ing for adaptors and I understand there are as many options as there are connections. What all of them (As far as I've found out) do is simply make the connection to the body. The DOF-button can not be operated.

[EASmithV]

The Tokina is a Minolta MD mount.

[E. von Hoegh]

The Sigma looks to be an Olympus OM mount.

For what you will spend on an adaptor, you are better off getting a lens made for whatever body you are using. Even professional grade used 35mm stuff is cheap today.

[Mustafa Umut Sarac]

I am agree with E.von Hoegh. Adaptors are not comes cheap generally and you can buy a Minolta and Olympus bodies , better investment for future. 28mm and 35-70mm will cover lots of your need. Looks like clean glass and mechanism. Good brands also. Good buy. www.keh.com , just have a look there , dont buy ugly class body . Postage can be a pain if you are from outside of US.

Umut

[Steven L]

Thanks for all the info. So my options are: sell the lenses and buy the ones that fit the Revueflex body. Or buy Minolta and Olympus bodies. The last option leaves me with 3 seperate camera's. To keep me from buying bodies that don't fit, what do I have to look for? Is there a way to see (without actually fitting the lens on the body) what kind of mount would fit? Is "just any" SLR Minolta and Olympus body enough to fit the bill or are there within those two options also different mounts?

[Rol_Lei Nut]

You always need to know exactly what kind of mount a lens has.
That often isn't easy to do just by looking at it.

In some case, even lenses made by and for the same brand will have different mounts.
(Canon FD vs. EF, Nikon Pre-AI vs. AI, AIS, DX, G etc. Minolta MD vs. AF and so on).

Best thing is to choose the camera/brand you prefer (cue for everyone to recommend the camera they have) and then get lenses for it => which are clearly described as having the right mount.

At a more expert level, people sometimes choose particular lenses first and then get a camera body for it - but this usually applies to special or very high quality lenses.

[Steven L]

I want to come back to the adaptor option. Is it true it only makes the connection to the body and it brings the lens a few mm forward? Leaving the aperture un-connected to the body. (with a normal lens, the body operates the aperture while it takes a picture. If you want to see what the aperture does with the settings, you press the DOF-button. This shows in the rangefinder)
If what is stated above is true, I could do the next: I've got a body cover to protect the mirror and the inside of the body. This fits perfectly on the body. I could make a negative 3d copy with silicone. This mold can be used to make a positive out of resin. If I do the same with the lens, I could make the connection work.
With the two lenses I've got quite a few filters, both 55mm and 52mm. I don't want them to go to waste, like the lenses.

[BrianL]

Better idea, sell the lenses and camera and buy something more universal such as Pentax K-1000 or earlier or Yahica FX-3 series. Lenses for these are inexpensive, there is a large offering and in the case of the Yashica, it also allows for the Contax lenses to be mounted if money is no object. Or look for the earlier Pentax offerings such as the Spotmatic that uses the M42 thread mount as the lens offering in that mount is huge and they do adapt to many other mounts through adaptors easily. The SMC line of lenses in thread mount were amongst the best when in production and still some of the better lenses today.

I'm not sure of the filter size of the Yashica/Contax lenses or the M42 or Pentax flange mounts but if smaller, then a simple adaptor can be had for less than $10. Just stay away from the plastic ones as they are a pain to unscrew. Metal is better. I use 62mm filters from my Bronica on my Yashica; look a bit funny but I could care less as some of my filters cost more than $100 and I ain't gonna blow that type of cash again if possible. (for those wondering the $100 price is for a 62mm Nikon circular polarizer, also some of the softening and net filters)

[Steven L]

I guess I'm going to sell the lenses. I've got a Dutch e-bay like website I'm going to try and sell it. I was looking for a decent asking price but the lenses on that website are so versitile and prices are nothing to compare. What is a good price to ask? Or should I just let people bid from 0?