Pentax K1000 Shutter Jammed
I just got a K1000 with an SMC-A 50mm f/2 for $8 from my local Goodwill. The shutter is jammed. I got it because I figured even if the camera isn't worth getting repaired, surely the lens is worth $8 on its own.
Does anyone have any guesses as to why the shutter may be jammed? The K1000 always struck me as a bare-bones camera, so hopefully it isn't too hard to fix. Thanks!
Sometimes if you take the lens off and open the back you can touch the blind from both front and back with your finger tips and by moving it slightly you may get it to fire.
“The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”
It costs to much to have repaired so try the following.
shutter/mirror reset faults not related to electronics.
1. shutter curtains slightly misaligned. Slight pressure could reset the shutter/mirror.
2. shutter released by cable in 'A' mode. Move S/S dial to 'B' and the shutter/mirror should reset.
And as a last resort . . .
Faulty timer preventing shutter release. Set timer. If timer runs out of tension before completion and must be forced over then do the following.
1. With timer all the way over, take a paper clip and insert into the cable release lug.
2. While pressing down, so as to release the shutter, advance and revert the film crank lever a couple of times.
Like I said, last resort, but if it gets your $8 investment on the road, what the heck, right?
This is not a recommended repair procedure. For a jammed shutter that will still work under the following circumstances.
If . . .
1. If the shutter will fire with a cable,
2. If the shutter will not fire with the button,
3. If the film crank will not advance on its own and
4. If the film crank will advance while depressing the shutter button
then smack the crank end of the camera on a carpeted floor a few times. I mean if it's a boat anchor anyway, might as well take a crack at it. This freed up the shutter button mechanism and allows the camera shutter to fire by using the button, not just the cable release.
"Wubba, wubba, wubba. Bing, bang, bong. Yuck, yuck, yuck and a fiddle-dee-dee." - The Yeti
My Spotmatic sometimes jammed.
As previously mentioned, take off lens & back and look at the shutter curtain.
If they seem to be partly open, *very gently* ease them shut. The mirror can be lifted in order acess them more easily.
If that fails, check the channels the curtains run in for any objects or film fragments (actually, do that first of all).
If still no luck, using appropriate screwdrivers, remove the bottom plate and check for objects blocking any of the gears. You can also try gently lifting up one of the gear assemblies, which should normally fire the shutter (haven't done that for a while, so can't be more specific).
Finally, beware of cut & paste answers, especially since the K1000 has no "A" mode or self-timer...
M6, SL, SL2, R5, P6x7, SL3003, SL35-E, F, F2, FM, FE-2, Varex IIa
the K 1000 is very similar to the Spotmatic. I remember that sometimes ago I have found a very good description for repairing a jammed Spotmatic in the Internet. The procedure was very simple and required only the opening of the bottom plate. I think I simply searched for "...jammed Spotmatic." Perhaps this can help you.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
Nothing worked, and I don't have screwdrivers small enough to remove the top plate. I don't need the camera; I have an LX in wonderful shape that is my main camera. A backup would have been nice, but I'll probably get an MX (or K1000 from KEH) as a backup. Thanks everyone!
I have found that a good squirt of lighter fuel followed by prodding the moving parts with a screwdriver can often un-jam shutters.
The K1000 uses the same shutter mechanism as the MX and KX (inherited from the Spotmatic, so it's a development of even earlier models). It relies on spring tension for accurate exposure so does tend to go out of adjustment over time.
Of the models you mention I'd go for an MX. However, if you can find a nice KX and don't need the motor winder or user-changeable focussing screens of the MX then have a good look - it's a K1000 without the hair shirt. You get aperture and shutter speed displayed in the viewfinder, DOF preview, mirror lockup (which the MX doesn't have), self timer and an easy to use film speed selector. If I had to slim down to two cameras it'd probably be the K2 and KX.
FWIW, I bought this camera from Brofkand and found a Broken tooth on the main wind gear. Fortunately the tooth was still attached to the gear until it (gear) was removed from the camera.
Heavily sedated for your protection.
If you got the camera and lens for $8 you should be able to spring for a CLA that will probably fix the problem. Any reputable shop will fix something simple as part of the CLA or let you know how much it will be if they need to charge extra. It's a simple camera, so should only cost $50 or so for a CLA if you shop around, I would try Garry's Camera Repair, he's done good by me on a number on manual Nikons.
I guess I'm of the opinion that just buying cameras until you get one that works is a waste of money. Buy one, get a CLA, and be set for the foreseeable future. You wouldn't expect a 30 year old car to run at it's prime if it never had a tune up.
Had I needed the camera, I would have absolutely gotten a CLA done. The eternal Eric Hendrickson quoted me at $65 for a repair. I decided not to go with it, as John Koehrer had already expressed interest in buying it via PM. I sold it to him, hopefully he can either get it working or at least now have tons of parts for other K1000's.
I don't have the tools (or patience) to take cameras apart, and I didn't want to get that invested in the camera by having a repair done. The only reason I bought it from Goodwill was I thought K1000's are rugged and it's probably just needing some exercise. I walked away from the Post Office with no regrets.