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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Shooter
    35mm
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    268
    In summary, there are three options:

    1) A zinc-air hearing aid "battery" (actually a cell). These have a limited life once they are exposed to the air. If you are going on vacation and you are going to shoot a lot of film in a week or two, these should work fine. Otherwise they will likely be dead the next time you pick up the camera. Wein cells are the same thing; they just get to charge more money because they are serving a "niche" market.
    2) An MR-9 adapter. This is a shell that fits over a silver oxide cell and converts both the voltage and physical dimensions to match the mercury cell the camera was originally designed for. They can be used in any camera and cost as much as 2 -3 rolls of film with processing. One will probably last forever.
    3) Have the camera modified to use a silver oxide cell. This involves adding a diode to the meter circuit to adjust the higher voltage of the silver cell. John Goodman includes this as a standard part of any CLA (i.e. you have to tell him not to do it if you want to use one of the alternatives above). I would imagine that any reputable repairman would at least offer to do it at a nominal cost. Since the silver cell has a smaller diameter than the mercury cell, this requires an O-ring or similar spacer to center it properly.

    If you intend to mix methods (e.g. you might want to keep some cameras "original"), you need to be careful to check which cell to use before loading the film. Never use an alkaline cell in these cameras. these have a non-linear voltage/discharge curve.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    20
    I had all my OM-1's converted to use today's silver oxide batteries. SR44 type fits well with a plastic O-ring, and lasts over a year (maybe more - I don't use mine that often to tell for sure.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Ash, Kent
    Shooter
    Medium Format
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    127
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    25
    Thanks Guys for all your replies. Well it turns out it was an OM-1n so that was a nice surprise (gd I read the advert!). It is in great condition, but the light seals were perished. I researched and saw that the prism foam could also be a bit of a time bomb, so it has been sent off to Mike Spencer for seals, prism foam removal, battery mod and general cla. Will write back my findings of the camera once I have run my first film through. Does anyone use the light meter as a 'spot' to zone meter a scene? Or should I stick to my digisix?? I just want accurate exposures and the ability to over and under-expose at will!

    Cheers

    Paul
    Speed Graphic, Pentax 67, Mamiya RZ67, Mamiya 645 1000s, Nikon F5, Nikon Fm2

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Mission Viejo, California
    Shooter
    127 Format
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    1,419
    Pretty cool Paul.

    The Om-1n did not seem to have the prism foam problem.

    The meter is a center weighted average meter that takes its reading from the back of the prism beside the eyepiece.

    I have always been very happy with the OM-1 metering (as long as the right battery is in there!).

    If I have bright spots or deep shadows in the scene a quick adjustment up or down takes care of it. Very easy to use.

    I think you're going to love using it. Especially after a CLA.
    - Bill Lynch

  5. #15
    baachitraka's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Bremen, Germany.
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,217
    Quote Originally Posted by 10speeduk View Post
    Thanks Guys for all your replies. Well it turns out it was an OM-1n so that was a nice surprise (gd I read the advert!). It is in great condition, but the light seals were perished. I researched and saw that the prism foam could also be a bit of a time bomb, so it has been sent off to Mike Spencer for seals, prism foam removal, battery mod and general cla. Will write back my findings of the camera once I have run my first film through. Does anyone use the light meter as a 'spot' to zone meter a scene? Or should I stick to my digisix?? I just want accurate exposures and the ability to over and under-expose at will!

    Cheers

    Paul
    Your digisix will do a great job. Just expose for shadows or average of shadow + highlight with incident meter...
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.

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