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  1. #131

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    The meter should have a name plate and serial number visible if you remove it from camera?

  2. #132
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    1971-74 is "early". 1975-80 would be considered "late", with cameras like my 796xxxx body being very late.

    -J
    APUG: F3P, F2AS, Nikomat FT2
    DPUG: D2x
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D2x), 20/3.5 UD, 24/2 AI, 35/2 O, 50/2 H, 50/1.4 S, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS, 180/2.8 PC
    'tax gear: Spot II, 55/1.8 Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

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  3. #133

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    Hi John

    Should the serial numbers of the body and meter match?

    Noel

  4. #134

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    Mine don't but who knows who swopped heads about, I don't think so as they are a factor of 10 apart.
    Body 7928***
    DP-3 867***
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/red_eyes_man/

    Photographer not a job description - a diagnosis.

  5. #135
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Chris,

    Well, they'll never really match, per se, since the DP series finders have a six digit serial, but they usually are preferred to be a matched set, if you're looking for a collector's item. User grade item, eh, use whatever you want. I'm in the latter category. One of my F2AS bodies started out as an F2A, but got upgraded when I sourced a second DP-12.

    Very early DP-1's have the Nikon F rubberized cloth "leatherette" coverings and a slightly different eyepiece assembly. All of the earlier DP-1's also have a normal oblong window for the meter needle and no dot underneath the shutter speed dial stack. Later DP-1's have a slotted oblong window and will either have a green dot or a red dot under the shutter speed dial stack. Red dot is the fully cladded ring resistor version, green dot is partially cladded. DP-11's are also this way. With both the DP-1 and the DP-11, Nikon made both the green dot and red dot versions concurrently. Wasn't until sometime in either late 1977 or 1978 that everything seemed to become red dot only. Had a body, #7747135 that had a green dot DP-11 when I bought it, and my current #7745651 body had a red dot DP-11 when I purchased it. Now, it has the aforementioned DP-12 attached to it, which happens to be the original finder from my #7960079 body. When it returns from Sover, it will get the finder that currently is mounted to the late body, since I plan to mate the late body with its original DP-12 after said finder has been overhauled.

    -J
    APUG: F3P, F2AS, Nikomat FT2
    DPUG: D2x
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D2x), 20/3.5 UD, 24/2 AI, 35/2 O, 50/2 H, 50/1.4 S, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS, 180/2.8 PC
    'tax gear: Spot II, 55/1.8 Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

    My FB - My flickr stream
    My SmugMug

  6. #136

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    Hi John

    Thanks both mine are 'good' users with significant impact damage. I was interested in Nikons serial number process

    The DP-1 is 33xxx

    - may need the resistor track cleaned
    - has a white dot for shutter speed datum
    - oblong meter window with cut out for datum

    The DE-1

    - Chipped prism (see impact damage above)

    Both the DP-1 and DE-1 have same covering material as bodies.

    Noel

  7. #137
    John_Nikon_F's Avatar
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    Noel,

    Has Sover worked on it yet? If not, consider sending it to him and let him work on it. It'll be better than new, even though it doesn't look the part.

    BTW: the red and green dots are on the underside of the coupler that connects to the body's shutter speed dial. The dot on the side of the shutter speed dial stack is white on all of them.

    -J
    APUG: F3P, F2AS, Nikomat FT2
    DPUG: D2x
    Nikkors: 18-70/3.5-4.5G AF-S DX (f/D2x), 20/3.5 UD, 24/2 AI, 35/2 O, 50/2 H, 50/1.4 S, 85/1.8 K, 105/4 Micro AIS, 180/2.8 PC
    'tax gear: Spot II, 55/1.8 Super-Multi-Coated Takumar

    My FB - My flickr stream
    My SmugMug

  8. #138

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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Nikon_F View Post
    Chris,

    Well, they'll never really match, per se, since the DP series finders have a six digit serial, but they usually are preferred to be a matched set, if you're looking for a collector's item. User grade item, eh, use whatever you want. I'm in the latter category. One of my F2AS bodies started out as an F2A, but got upgraded when I sourced a second DP-12.

    (Snip lots of useful/interesting stuff C )

    -J
    John
    Thanks for that info. Of course people prefer them matched- we all know they then take better pictures

    Both mine have nice brassing so are not "collectible" nice if someone else spends the film money running them in!!
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/red_eyes_man/

    Photographer not a job description - a diagnosis.

  9. #139

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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Nikon_F View Post
    Noel,

    Has Sover worked on it yet? If not, consider sending it to him and let him work on it. It'll be better than new, even though it doesn't look the part.

    BTW: the red and green dots are on the underside of the coupler that connects to the body's shutter speed dial. The dot on the side of the shutter speed dial stack is white on all of them.

    -J
    Hi John

    Thanks

    No Sover has not seen either to my knowledge. One was 70GBP so cheaper to get another than to have serviced.

    But did look at his site may have bad battery connection as well in one body.

    Forgot

    - I needed to patch holes in curtin with fabric paint... my concept of good user is it still works ok.
    - a lens needed re lubed.
    - three lenses need a drill & tap for rabbits ears

    donno why Nikon omitted 'ears' from late nikkors

    The 'real' dot is green.

    Noel

  10. #140
    agphotography's Avatar
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    I managed to acquire a bargain grade F2 body with a DE-1 prism (all in black) for what I consider to be a good price. Now my plain-prism F has a friend
    - Abram

    Leica M2 / Hasselblad 500CM



 

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