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  1. #11

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    Some spray on electronic cleaners can damage plastic or melt it. Since the OM-10 ASA knob is all plastic I would not use it. Proper repair requires disassembly of the knob from the inside, washing the parts with warm water and rebuilding. (Coke damage is sugar based and water will clean it faster than any solvent cleaner). I normally don't recommend investing money in the OM-10. It is an extremely unreliable model and has chronic overexposure problems. Overexposure okay with print film but with slide film forget about it. John

  2. #12

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    Personally I just use a spray bottle of monitor cleaner, I think it's a very mild alcohol solution. Just soak a cotton bud with it and use it to wipe the gunge out of the contacts.

    They may be cheap and a bit nasty but this makes them ideal for a first repair project. If you can't make it better then at least you didn't spend much on it, and the skills you pick up will mean that you can repair more interesting cameras later on.
    Matt

  3. #13

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    My "new" OM-2n

    Well, I just couldn't resist an OM-2n with Winder 2 at a very good price. I can use the f1.8 from the OM-10 on it. It seems in really nice condition, no dents, shutter sounds okay, I'll of course run some film through it in the next few days.

    It does look as though the foam seals could really use replacing. Is this a terribly difficult job for a careful amateur? Is there a source of kits? And any idea what it would cost to have someone else do the work?

    Think I'll look into a few lenses to go with it and the T32 flash I have. Why not have both Pentax and Olympus kits?

  4. #14

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    I think I answered my own question! In the Repairs section I found several threads for replacing seals, several recommending Jon Goodman. I'll have a look.

    Re the OM-10 I think I'll play around with hydrogen peroxide. BTW, the RatShack contact cleaner states that its safe for plastics, and I've used it on plastics with no problem. Now if I can find my spray can of it....

    Many thanks to all

  5. #15

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    You are going to love that OM-2N.

    Be sure to put some new Silver Oxide batteries in it.

    Oh, and watch out for that T-32 flash. They are a bit heavy and can crack your adapter shoe. A T-20 is the heaviest I will use anymore.
    - Bill Lynch

  6. #16

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    Thanks for the warning about the T32. Sounds like you speak from experience. I'm not a major flasher in any case. I have several old auto flashes which I could use, anyway. I imagine that the shutter on the OM-2 has some voltage constraints, where could I find its max safe voltage.

  7. #17

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    On my first OM-1 I used a Vivitar 283. It broke the hot shoe and I got in the habit of holding it off-camera with a the remote sensor and connecting cord. That worked really well. Now uncracked shoes are hard to find and pricey when you do.

    The OM-2 will work the T-32 or T-20 automatically so there is good reason to use them. Just beware. That's all.
    - Bill Lynch

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by wblynch View Post
    On my first OM-1 I used a Vivitar 283. It broke the hot shoe and I got in the habit of holding it off-camera with a the remote sensor and connecting cord. That worked really well. Now uncracked shoes are hard to find and pricey when you do.

    The OM-2 will work the T-32 or T-20 automatically so there is good reason to use them. Just beware. That's all.
    If I really get into the OM family there is a handle flash adapter which also takes 4 C-cells for power. I've seen this used really cheap, but it does, of course, need a special cord. I also have a Promaster flash for my LX which has a module which gives full OTF with that beauty. I also have the handle adaptor for that unit. Now, if I can find the similar module for the OM-2n.... At a reasonable price, of course.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRHazelton View Post
    If I really get into the OM family there is a handle flash adapter which also takes 4 C-cells for power. I've seen this used really cheap, but it does, of course, need a special cord. I also have a Promaster flash for my LX which has a module which gives full OTF with that beauty. I also have the handle adaptor for that unit. Now, if I can find the similar module for the OM-2n.... At a reasonable price, of course.
    Be careful about which "handle flash adapter" you are looking at. The "Bounce Grip" is compatible with the old Quick Auto Flash 310 and the TTl flash metering on the OM-2, whereas the "Power Bounce Grip 2" adds compatibility with the T20 and T32 flashes and the TTl metering on the OM-2n, OM-2s, OM-4 (and OM-3?).

    If you don't need the TTl flash capability, it doesn't matter as much.

    I have used a T32 for years on both an OM-2s and an OM-1/OM-1n, without problems. In the last couple of years, I have also used a T32 on an OM-2n and an OM-G as well, without problems. The vulnerability, if any comes from the shape of the T32 - if you bump the corner of the flash hard, the twisting force on the shoe could be substantial.

    FWIW, IIRC John Hermanson (zuiko.com) has posted that with respect to this issue he prefers the OM bodies with removable flash shoes because if an accident like this happens, it is more likely to just damage the replaceable shoe than the camera itself.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    Be careful about which "handle flash adapter" you are looking at. The "Bounce Grip" is compatible with the old Quick Auto Flash 310 and the TTl flash metering on the OM-2, whereas the "Power Bounce Grip 2" adds compatibility with the T20 and T32 flashes and the TTl metering on the OM-2n, OM-2s, OM-4 (and OM-3?).

    If you don't need the TTl flash capability, it doesn't matter as much.

    I have used a T32 for years on both an OM-2s and an OM-1/OM-1n, without problems. In the last couple of years, I have also used a T32 on an OM-2n and an OM-G as well, without problems. The vulnerability, if any comes from the shape of the T32 - if you bump the corner of the flash hard, the twisting force on the shoe could be substantial.

    FWIW, IIRC John Hermanson (zuiko.com) has posted that with respect to this issue he prefers the OM bodies with removable flash shoes because if an accident like this happens, it is more likely to just damage the replaceable shoe than the camera itself.
    Thanks for the "warning." The one I've seen cites the T20 and T32 in its listing. But, as it doesn't seem to include the proper connecting cord how wise a purchase it would be seems uncertain. Good point about the removeable shoe, as a Pentaxian I've often worried about the torque put on a shoe by a flashgun. On my LX with the interchangeable prisms a really hard blow might do more than "merely" twist off the hotshoe.

    Wouldn't it be nice if the Pentax and Olympus and other TTL flashes were compatible? Only in my dreams.... Perhaps the closest we ever came to interbrand compatiblity was the "open source" K-mount. Even then Ricoh K-mounts often have a pin which will "lock" the lens to Pentax autofocus scewdrive K mounts. However, the Pentax and Olympus ref converters are interchangeable, at least with the later series Pentax eyepieces. At least all film cassettes are now compatible, which wasn't always the case, re: early Karomats.

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