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Thread: Pentax lenses

  1. #21
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PentaxBronica View Post
    The genuine Pentax M42-K adapters aren't hard to remove. You just use a fingernail to pull the little tab toward the centre of the mount, then turn the adapter to remove it.
    And get the genuine ones only. I once bought a Chinese clone of the genuine Pentax adapters and it refused to release no matter how hard I tried. I ended up carefully cutting it with diagonal cutters to remove it.
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  2. #22

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    The usual fault with the clone adapters is apparently that the screws holding the mounting spring work loose, causing the spring to jam. They're not generally as well machined though - they've reverse engineered the K mount rather than having Pentax's drawings and measurements.

    The only Takumar Bayonet lenses worth touching are the 28mm and 135mm f2.8. I've heard reasonable things about the 70-200mm f4 zoom too but it's really a case of "only buy if stupidly cheap", given that you can find the full fat SMC lenses for not much more.
    Matt

  3. #23

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    If you could get the MX then you don't need the K1000. The MX is much better than the K1000.

  4. #24
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    The K1000 is a great camera. If you use it with a cable release, don't screw it in too tightly, or the shutter release button might come loose, more so than other cameras (don't ask how I know). That's the only drawback of its design that I can think of. The 50mm f/2 lens is fantastic too.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  5. #25

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    Thanks for all the replies again, I eventually got the MX today for just £30! It isn't in perfect condition but only a couple of small dents and a few scratches on the bottom, and the hot shoe doesn't work, any flash needs to have a wire connecting it to the camera, otherwise it's very nice. The two lenses weren't Pentax, the 28mm was Cosina and the 50mm was Chinon I think, it has a Cosina lens cap so I'm not sure. Are they good lenses? They both seem nice to me.
    If you have any other suggestions for me for anything please tell me

    Thanks again, James
    James

    My 500px Profile --> http://500px.com/James_EG

  6. #26

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    Just a couple of questions for the MX, how do I use the little lever in front of the shutter button? and what does it do?
    Also, does the MX have a metering system like the K1000 that tells me if I have the right setting for the light levels?

    Thanks, James
    James

    My 500px Profile --> http://500px.com/James_EG

  7. #27

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    Lever in front of the shutter button must be the shutter lock.
    Good copy of the manual -> Pentax MX

  8. #28

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    The hotshoe may be an easy fix, two of mine had the same problem.

    You'll need a set of jeweller's screwdrivers. First use the smallest flathead driver to gently lift the sprung inlay up at the front and slide it out backwards. This will reveal four crosshead screws. Undo these and the hotshoe will lift off (the MX doesn't have any internal nuts to drop into the camera AFAIK - the screws go into tapped holes in the top plate).

    Underneath you'll find a brass tongue which is supposed to touch the contacts extending down from the hotshoe. Bend it up slightly and check the contacts now touch. Reassemble (making sure that the sprung inlay goes back properly - it needs to be held firmly against the hotshoe as you slide it back in to make sure that it hooks over at the back), fit a flash and try it.

    The Cosina lenses may or may not be good, only advice I can give is to try them. Some 3rd party primes were pretty decent lenses.

    Not sure which lever you mean - if it's the one on the front of the camera then it's the self timer and depth of field preview. Push it toward the lens mount for DOF preview, for self timer pull it away from the mount. To trigger the timer press the little circular button at the 12 o'clock position, providing the camera is wound it will fire when the timer runs out.

    There is also a locking collar around the shutter button to stop you from accidentally firing it, although I tend not to leave mine wound on as it's hard on the shutter springs if you leave it that way for weeks or months at a time.

    Metering - you have LEDs on the right hand side of the viewfinder, to turn it on half press the shutter button. If you pop the winder lever out (rather than having it stowed against the body) then half press the shutter it will click at the halfway point and keep the meter turned on. Push the winder lever back in to switch it off. A green LED means correct exposure, yellow means over or under by a stop, red means over or under by more than a stop.

    The meter uses two button cells in a compartment in the baseplate, just like the K1000. The other similar fitting is for a motor wind. Use a 2p coin to unscrew them, not a screwdriver (wish the last owner of my K2 knew that, I wouldn't have had to replace the battery cover then!)
    Matt

  9. #29

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    Thanks for the replies, a lot of information, regarding the hotshoe I will try that when I can get the screwdrivers but the contact that goes on the flash looks pretty badly damaged so I may have to find a spare one. With the shutter lock, if I turn it either way it doesn't stop the shutter from being pressed, am I doing something wrong?
    Yet another question, does anyone know of a supplier of spare parts for the Pentax MX? I really want to replace the base plate, the hotshoe, the cap on top of the winder and maybe even the top part of the camera with the dials, winder etc., also the battery cover. All these parts are quite badly damaged and I would love it if the camera could look like new again. Furthermore, is there any way of reparing the grip on the film door? It has started to peel off on one corner, and is there any way of repainting the camera so that all the bits that are supposed to be black are black and not copper? The paint has rubbed off.

    Sorry for even more questions but it is the only way for me to learn...

    Thanks, James
    James

    My 500px Profile --> http://500px.com/James_EG

  10. #30

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    Grip on the film door . . . the leather cover? If so then look into Camera Leather and others.

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