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  1. #11

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    Ok, so confusion aside (and I'm definately getting a little more confused here, not less) there are a couple of points here I'd like to clarify.

    With a super takumar lens mounted, and the DOF/meter switch in the 'down' position (ie, 'off' from the point of view of one of the older spotmatics) the meter on my F responds, and indicates what seems to be a roughly correct exposure. From what I'm reading above, this exposure reading should be disregarded, that the SP F will meter correctly with super takumar lenses ONLY if the metering switch is slid up. That this reading (When I switch up the meter) is about 2 stops too slow is certainly an issue, but needs to be considered in isolation. I've got 1.5v silver oxide cells in it, roughly 80% of the internet seems to think this is fine because of the SP f's bridge circuit, and there's a vocal minority that claim that this view is mistaken.

    I actually have an SMC 28mm that I can grab tomorrow so I can check the flipside of the coin, open aperture metering with the right lens.

    I've -also- discovered to my annoyance that one speed is flaky, or rather one EV, ie 1/250 at 400iso or 1/60 at 100iso. This is the same as another of my older spotmatics, and I bet it's the same cause as well. Dunno if you've ever dis assembled a spotmatic, but the shutter speed selecter linkage to the metering circuit is two thin copper discs with a small contact between them. Both cameras sat around for years before I got them, I'd say there's a tiny spot of corrosion in the spot that little contact was sitting all those years or something. Hopefully lots of actioning it might clear it up a bit.

  2. #12

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    have you considered just skipping the batteries in the thing and buying a handheld meter? The circuitry in these cameras is edging up to 40 years of age, the sort of batteries they were made for are no longer made, a handheld meter, coupled to a knowledgable brain, will be far more accurate. I find it so with my M4 and so on.

  3. #13
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daire Quinlan View Post
    Ok, so confusion aside (and I'm definately getting a little more confused here, not less) there are a couple of points here I'd like to clarify.

    With a super takumar lens mounted, and the DOF/meter switch in the 'down' position (ie, 'off' from the point of view of one of the older spotmatics) the meter on my F responds, and indicates what seems to be a roughly correct exposure.
    Certainly have heard enough variation to believe there are different "versions" of the Spotmatic F. Mine is the "Needle is Up when Meter is Off" variant. Heard there is a version where the needle is centered - surely something they fixed, makes me think mine's a late model (Honeywell).

  4. #14
    Ricardo Miranda's Avatar
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    Right! This is the way the Spotmatic F works. Well, at least mine and that's what it says on Manual.
    The switch on the left is no longer a meter on/off but it only switches between full aperture metering when down to stop-down metering when up.
    The meter is a "always on" type and only switches off with a lens cap or when light falls behind a certain level.
    To use SMC lenses, the switch needs to be down. With Super Takumar and other earlier lenses, the switches goes up to stop down the lens to actual aperture.
    Hope this helps!

    Mine is the "Needle is Up when Meter is Off" variant. Heard there is a version where the needle is centered - surely something they fixed, makes me think mine's a late model (Honeywell).
    That is only applicable to the earlier 1964 Pentax Spotmatic model that had a long history of small improvements.
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  5. #15
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardo Miranda View Post
    That is only applicable to the earlier 1964 Pentax Spotmatic model that had a long history of small improvements.
    I have this Honeywell Spotmatic F in front of me now, and that's how it behaves.

  6. #16
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I've had early and late Spotmatic F's and when off the needle's been at the top, however that may vary depending on the ISO & shutter speed/aperture the camera's set to.

    Batteries aren't a problem as there's a modern one that works fine, I bought two on Thursday.

    Ian

  7. #17
    Ricardo Miranda's Avatar
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    Please see what the manual says: http://www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_...potmatic_f.pdf
    On page 1 there is a description on how the meter switches on by removal of the lens cap. Also on pages 20 and 21 there is a description of the "stop-down lever" as Pentax calls it.
    If the needle is up, regardless of the state of the stop-down lever, the meter is active.
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  8. #18
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Hi Ricardo Miranda,

    You are right on the point I asserted incorrectly. I said Needle is up when meter off. That's False

    With no battery, my needle is centered.

    I can simulate a Takumar or Super Takumar lens by unscrewing the SMCT lens one turn. Now I believe the linkage is designed to shoot the needle to top when "Depth of Field switch is Down" as a feature to keep user from thinking exposure is correct. When I cover the lens completely the needle returns to center as the meter "powers off" and I can watch it shoot to top when I let in a small amount of light.

  9. #19
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    p.s. Does anyone have a spare "rewind knob" for Spotmatic F? I lost it once then I hunted it down and found it. I didn't put Loctite on it so it fell off again and I didn't notice before the street sweeper came by...

  10. #20
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I can probably get you one in early December, there's usually a stall at the camera fair I go to which has parts cameras for £1 ($1.55) and postage of a rewind crank would be very low. I bought an SIa for parts but had it working perfectly within 20mins, so had to buy another a few months later but the rewind was missing, The cranks are identical.

    Ian

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