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  1. #11

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    It makes the FE-2 much more ergonomic and steadier with heavier lenses. And, you can drastically reduce the weight by using lithium batteries in it. I rarely shoot without mine. Even though I rarely turn it on.




  2. #12

    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Yukon, OK
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    Kiron Kid, please keep on posting such beautiful pictures of your FE.....that's some good camera porn.

    Bob E.
    Nikon F5, Nikon F4S, Nikon FA, Nikon FE, Nikon N90, Nikon N80, Nikon N75, Mamiya 645 Pro, Mamiya Press Super 23, Yashica Lynx 14e, Yashica Electro GSN, Yashica 124G, Yashica D

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    33

  4. #14
    Photo-gear's Avatar
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    Dec 2009
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    Montréal (Québec)
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    I very like using the MD-12 for the worst reasons, especially the fabulous noise... It is only unfortunate that this motor-drive requires 8 AA batteries, which is unreal for only automatically advancing film.

    Concerning the weight, I made up my mind as to using it only with the FE2 when I feel lazy, so I set the camera on "A" mode.

    When I feel like shooting purely mechanical, I use the FM2n without the MD-12.

  5. #15
    trojancast's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    25
    Any time a seller says he does not have a camera to try it with, but that he knows it works, I will save you the suspense. When you receive it, it will not work. 'nuff said.

    PS - Personal experience speaking.
    Canon EOS-1V | Canon 5D2 | 17-40/4L | 24-105/4L | 14/2.8L | 24/1.4L | 35/1.4L | 50/1.2L | 85/1.2L | 200-400/4L | 580EX

    “For me, the camera is a sketch book, an instrument of intuition and spontaneity.”
    ― Henri Cartier-Bresson

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
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    I hear you, but I've had many experience quite to the contrary.

    With MD-11/12, especially, one needs to know the foibles of setting them up to work or one will, with almost no excpetion, think erroneously that their "new" MD is broken.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Shooter
    35mm RF
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    167
    Quote Originally Posted by brianentz View Post
    I'm looking at picking up a MD12 motor drive for my Nikon FE2 and FA. The seller says that he doesn't have a camera to mate it with but with batteries in and you turn it on it does nothing. Is that normal for an MD12? Will it only do something if it's attached to a camera body or should a properly functioning one actuate even without being attached to a body.
    I've been using these for over 30 years, first on an Fm2n and now also with an FM3a, I have three.
    They are great when they work, fast and all that's available for this camera system.
    As already mentioned, the application of a copper penny across the terminal should cause actuation, if not, its broken or your batteries are not fresh. Batteries must be fresh, I had one fail to actuate and the new batteries from a local camera shop also failed to actuate, swapped out for new batteries from another source and it worked.
    Periodically, they get hung up and the only solution is to decouple, actuate and reinstall. Has happened multiple times over the years to me with all of my units and I can't figure out a reason or commonality.
    Recently during a wedding I was shooting, hung up on my FM3a, removed from camera and finished the shoot without it. Reinstalled. no problem.
    Frustrating motor but that's all there is for this Nikon system.
    Frankly the Fm3a is the best Nikon film SLR I have owned, the Nikon F's I've had are indestructible but are old now, the FM series are not designed for the duty of an F but they get the job done very nicely.-Dick

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    35mm
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    Quote Originally Posted by budrichard View Post
    I've been using these for over 30 years, first on an Fm2n and now also with an FM3a, I have three.
    They are great when they work, fast and all that's available for this camera system.
    As already mentioned, the application of a copper penny across the terminal should cause actuation, if not, its broken or your batteries are not fresh. Batteries must be fresh, I had one fail to actuate and the new batteries from a local camera shop also failed to actuate, swapped out for new batteries from another source and it worked.
    Periodically, they get hung up and the only solution is to decouple, actuate and reinstall. Has happened multiple times over the years to me with all of my units and I can't figure out a reason or commonality.
    Recently during a wedding I was shooting, hung up on my FM3a, removed from camera and finished the shoot without it. Reinstalled. no problem.
    Frustrating motor but that's all there is for this Nikon system.
    Frankly the Fm3a is the best Nikon film SLR I have owned, the Nikon F's I've had are indestructible but are old now, the FM series are not designed for the duty of an F but they get the job done very nicely.-Dick

    They will "hangup" when their power is turned on, and you inadvertently turn the camera power on. When this happens, just remove and short with a coin, key, etc. When using the MD-12, just be sure to not use the manual film advance lever.

  9. #19

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    191
    What I like about MD11 & MD12 is they act as additional layer to avoid me scratching the camera base
    And most of all I can turn on the meter without pulling film winding lever which always pokes to my eyebrow. But just today my motordrive failed to function. I was hiking in the snowy area and it soon refused to crank the camera. I pulled the battery tray and put in my pocket. After I finished hiking I reinsert the tray and it's working again. Apparently it can't stand cold weather.

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    35mm
    Posts
    892
    Use the Lithium batteries in them as they can stand a much wider range of temperatures. Plus they are much lighter too.

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