OM-2sp is one good camera, the batteries will last for two months even if you shoot intensely. Never hesitate to carry two or more battery pairs. OTF/TTF metering is very good and this camera goes really well with METZ CL-4 45 with an adapter too.
* Do not illuminate the viewfinder, which eats the batteries.
* Put it in B, when not in use.
If you like the OM-2n you have then just get another one or two bodies of the same. John Hermanson, well known expert on all things OM and repair guru for the Olympus OM system thinks the OM-2n is the best overall value in the OM line of cameras. Having three bodies that all operate the same way will also be a considerable advantage. The OM-2n's are also bargain's now on the used market.
I have a OM-2sp that ate button cells. I never liked the feel of the body anyway but as a dedicated contraption builder fashioned an 'L' shaped grip for the camera that uses 2 AAA batteries to supply 3V to the greedy little beast. Now a set of AAA alkaline batteries will last 3~4 years.
Last edited by pen s; 10-30-2012 at 02:49 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Originally Posted by MrclSchprs
Do you know, I think you are right. I used to work for a dealer in 2000/2001 and he would not take in an OM4 2nd hand that had not been modified. I had forgotten exactly how to check.
Get a lightmeter. TLRs are a good choice for a medium format camera.
Just for information, the Minolta 7000i which takes expansion cards has the ability to average 7 spotmeter readings using the Spotmeter card. Only problem is that the camera is reasonably big, but if your hands are big it might work out for you. Fantastic viewfinder tho. Generally they in sell in the range of $20 to $35 for the body.
Originally Posted by pcsaba1981
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I brought my OM-4 in twice complaining of battery drain and they never replaced my board. Left me a note instead telling me my batteries were dead.
In the long run, I grew experienced in the matter and only missed a few shots due to dead batteries. The secret? Use cheapest Alkaline A-76 and carry no fewer than 6 spares. Even on week-long backpacking trips, the camera never went through all 6.
When it locks up dead battery... Just spin the shutter to the manual 60 or B and fire a shot. Change battery and be back in business with no drama.
I'll second what E. von Hoegh said... get a spotmeter. Get one with a holster for your belt. Then you will have spotmetering for every camera you own - and you never have to use a built-in camera meter again.
The above method doesn't work and does nothing to conserve battery life. The only thing it does is disable the metering system from turning on when you press the shutter button half-way down.
Originally Posted by BMbikerider
However, battery technology has come a far way since the 80'ies. You can replace the SR/LR44 button cells with single-cell 3 volt Lithium ones which last a lot longer. My OM-3 "runs" for months at an end with such a cell. And my 4Ti hasn't needed a new cell for 14 months.
AFAIK the OM4Ti never suffered from this problem and I suspect the OM3 didn't either. The latter I really do not know. May be someone more knowledgeable can shed some light as I own one for some days now
Originally Posted by Trasselblad
There is also the Cosina-manufactured OM-2000 which takes the same lenses and has spot-metering (and is mechanical to boot). You will lose aperture-priority auto-exposure (at least I think) and flash TTL metering though. They seem to be quite cheap.
You are right that the 4Ti had the new circuits with lower battery wear - according to 80ies standards - but the original series OM-3 had the same battery problem as the original OM-4 did. Maybe a bit less, since it only uses the power for metering, not shutter operation, but it still tends to go through batteries quite fast. Much faster than my 4Ti at any rate. The 3Ti was a totally different beast and I would almost trade my dogs for one of those...
Originally Posted by Ulrich Drolshagen
Congrats on your OM-3. I have owned mine since brand new in 1987. It has never failed me all around the world, in any climate, from -40C to +45C, dry or humid, rain or shine. Fantastic mechanical contraption. Pinnacle of Japanese mechanical micro-engineering (well almost, the 3Ti...) IMHO.
Last edited by Trasselblad; 10-31-2012 at 12:31 PM. Click to view previous post history.