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  1. #151

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    Quote Originally Posted by Diapositivo View Post
    If money is no object, I think you could ask an artisan (one of those people making adapter rings or working lenses on your specifications) to convert a Leica back for you.

    The basic logic should be entirely contained in the back.

    The artisan should take a normal Canon AE-1Program back, a "normal" Leica digital back, strip the electronics from the Leica, and putting it to the Canon. It might be not very hard to do for a specialist.
    Some flying wires might take energy from the winder or the artisan might adapt a battery compartment to the back.
    The final result should not look very attractive but it might be possible to do it.
    It's not quite that easy - the DMR is both a back and a winder contoured to the R body shape. It requires some signaling between the camera and the back to synchronize the exposure -- you want to reset the sensor just before the shutter fires and read out just after, otherwise you get a lot more noise. Since the AE1P lacks that signalling, it would have to be hacked in. The back also bulges out a lot more than the Canon back which would make the AE1P viewfinder a PITA to use. If you mainly want to use Canon FD lenses, there are much better solutions.

  2. #152

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    Quote Originally Posted by williamkazak View Post
    What? No flash shoe, only 1/90 flash sync.
    Would it be safe to say that most F3 users don't use a flash?

  3. #153

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    Well, I had a pair of F3 bodies that I used for weddings for a very long time. Flash, on a bracket was mandatory. Every two years or less, the PC had to be replaced because they would "burn up" from use.

  4. #154

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    Quote Originally Posted by LJSLATER View Post
    Would it be safe to say that most F3 users don't use a flash?
    Faster sync speeds was not as important indoors as the F3's TTL flash which was not common at the time of it's release.

  5. #155

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    I had to carry three different neutral density filters to use flash outdoors with the F3. I must have used two F3 camera bodies for over ten years for weddings, indoor model shoots and all of my personal work.

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Les Sarile View Post
    How about stupid things they put it?
    Nikon introduced a feature into their aperture priority capable cameras (F3, FE2 & FA and others?) that sets a fix shutter speed when you load a new roll and advancing it to frame 1. This is to prevent you from accidentally setting it in aperture priority with the lens cap on and the camera setting a long exposure as you try to advance to frame 1.
    Actually that is a useful feature to speed up loading film. regardless of mode you can cycle shutter to wind film on take up spool. With the lens cap on and loading a new roll with the camera in aperture priority mode it will take forever to load or you have to switch modes.

    It is also useful to confound the uninititated into selling the body cheap because they are tricked into thinking the camera is stuck on one shutter speed when they were playing with it either with the back open or fire a few shots and see no speed change.

    I got 2 FAs cheap because of this very reason.
    APUG: F, F/FTN,F2,F2A,F2AS,F3,F3HP,FA,FE,FM,FM2,FE2,XK,XM,XD, XD-5,XD-7,XD-11,XE,XE-5,XE-7,SRT101,SRT102,XG9,XG7,XG1,XG-SE,XG-M,X700,OM-1,OM-1n,OM-2,OM-2n,OM-4,F-1,F-1N,AE-1P,R5,500C/M,SCII
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  7. #157

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    fstop, As you see from the quote, I was aware of the purpose of this idiot proof feature. Of course, anyone unaware of how a covered lens would affect aperture priority has already missed the point so why implement it?

    Of course in Nikon's final manual focus SLR - the FM3A, they smartly left this feature out of it. They also smartly left the extra locking mechanism need to open the film back . . .

  8. #158

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    Right after I got my FM2N, I thought the meter was broken when I inadvertently set the shutter speed to B, which shut the meter off. With my F2S, the B setting is also the 2-second setting.

    With the F3, why is that it locks any manual shutter speed above 1/80 before frame 1, but you can still go all the way down to 8 seconds? It seems more consistent with the idiot-proof design to lock shutter speeds slower than 1/80.

    While we're at it, why not make the camera lock in at 1/80 in A mode, but change M mode to allow access to the full range of shutter speeds (and the damned meter)?

  9. #159

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    Looking at the electronics in the F3, probably due to the limitations of embedded control devices of the time?

  10. #160

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    You mean the F3 doesn't have a Pentium processor on board? Unacceptable!



 

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