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New Zealand is a very small market compared to, for example, Australia. If New Zealanders don't look after their cars, bikes and motorcycles, I imagine they aren't particularly endowed to their cameras and lenses. Do you buy solely from New Zealand, or is there a missing reference to surrounding Oceania e.g. Australia?
.::Garyh
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Canon EOS1N ('Brutus', 1993—), TS-E 24mm f3.5L, 20mm f2.8, 17-40 f4L, 70-200 f2.8L
Pentax 67 ('Pentaximus', 2010—) + SMCP 45mm f4, 55mm f4 & 165mm f4LS;
Zero Image 6x9 multi-format pinhole (2008—); Sekonic L758D;
Olympus XA, Nikon Coolpix P7700
"If you're not having fun, then you're not doing it right!"
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Sick of buying lenses that need work
 Originally Posted by Poisson Du Jour
New Zealand is a very small market compared to, for example, Australia. If New Zealanders don't look after their cars, bikes and motorcycles, I imagine they aren't particularly endowed to their cameras and lenses. Do you buy solely from New Zealand, or is there a missing reference to surrounding Oceania e.g. Australia?
You are right about us not looking after our cars.
I buy from Trademe.co.nz and only within NZ, I wouldn't even know how to buy from Aussie.
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Sick of buying lenses that need work
Originally Posted by desertratt
Ummmm. doing something over and over again and getting the same result while expecting something different to happen is one definition of ... insanity. Sounds to me you are a sucker waiting to be plucked. Get used to it. We all have different skills. I am a bummer at selling. I have been buying used lens and cameras from the Internet lately and I mostly get first-class stuff. If I see too much hype I don't buy and I bid low. It's hard work not gimme that one I want it.
This week I got a Minolta XG-M with the original box and paperwork plus a 45mm f2 Rokkor-X lens. Everything looks brand new and the box itself sells for more than I paid for the whole works.
I was hoping the lens was a Leica/Minolta one but it is a cheaper lens but the whole deal is worth maybe $100 more than I paid.
I recently I got a Yashicamat and you have to look it over really good to see that it is not brand new out of the box.
I really work at going over the listings in the auctions.
That all sounds good in theory but that is based on buying in the USA. Here in New Zealand the selection is far smaller on the local auction site and the prices far higher. It's sort of take what you can get a lot of the time. Currently there is a single OM4 for $500 so if you want one that is what you pay, another might not come up for 6 months.
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Originally Posted by BrianShaw
p.s. except for sticky shutters, major fungus/scratches, and sticky aperture blades in a SLR lens, most of the other afflictions are fairly innocuous in their affect on images.
Minor nicks and scratches have a lot more impact on value than performance. But even minor haze really does cause problems. You might shoot quite a lot of pictures without it showing up at all, but get some contrasty light or a person against a bright wall, and then it shows up and makes a mess of things. Luckily that one is usually not a big deal to fix.
On the issue of oily mess with lens cleaners; ROR will certainly loosen up any oily residue. I use it when I need the extra help, but expect to have to do 3 to 5 applications to get the mess cleared up. That is on a lens that hasn't been cleaned with it before (even a new lens, in my experience). I don't know where the muck comes from, but it doesn't seem to come back to any great degree once thoroughly cleaned. I mostly use breath with microfiber cloths, and a lens pen. ROR if necessary.
The Seneca lens - don't take my word for being a RR, that is just an educated guess. I'd just hate for you to be disappointed if you are expecting something else. I've always meant to try RR's since they seem like neat lenses. I couldn't make out the short focal length, maybe 6 or 8". You should be able to focus either.
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Sick of buying lenses that need work
Originally Posted by Mark Crabtree
Minor nicks and scratches have a lot more impact on value than performance. But even minor haze really does cause problems. You might shoot quite a lot of pictures without it showing up at all, but get some contrasty light or a person against a bright wall, and then it shows up and makes a mess of things. Luckily that one is usually not a big deal to fix.
On the issue of oily mess with lens cleaners; ROR will certainly loosen up any oily residue. I use it when I need the extra help, but expect to have to do 3 to 5 applications to get the mess cleared up. That is on a lens that hasn't been cleaned with it before (even a new lens, in my experience). I don't know where the muck comes from, but it doesn't seem to come back to any great degree once thoroughly cleaned. I mostly use breath with microfiber cloths, and a lens pen. ROR if necessary.
The Seneca lens - don't take my word for being a RR, that is just an educated guess. I'd just hate for you to be disappointed if you are expecting something else. I've always meant to try RR's since they seem like neat lenses. I couldn't make out the short focal length, maybe 6 or 8". You should be able to focus either.
The haze became apparent in a backlit shot....
Pray tell, what is ROR?
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Originally Posted by Chris Nielsen
The haze became apparent in a backlit shot....
Pray tell, what is ROR?
Yes, people will sometimes accuse you of being to fussy about haze, but I often notice it from seeing the evidence in prints, then go hunting for the cause.
ROR is a brand of lens cleaner. Stands for Residual Oil Remover. It does work, but initially often makes things worse until you persist and get all the mess off. They used to make outrageous claims about how improved lens performance, but I believe quit that many years ago. It is often unnecessary, but great when you do need it.
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Sick of buying lenses that need work
Originally Posted by Mark Crabtree
Yes, people will sometimes accuse you of being to fussy about haze, but I often notice it from seeing the evidence in prints, then go hunting for the cause.
ROR is a brand of lens cleaner. Stands for Residual Oil Remover. It does work, but initially often makes things worse until you persist and get all the mess off. They used to make outrageous claims about how improved lens performance, but I believe quit that many years ago. It is often unnecessary, but great when you do need it.
Thanks. Not buying from overseas as its probably classed as DG. See if I can get it locally
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Originally Posted by Chris Nielsen
That all sounds good in theory but that is based on buying in the USA. Here in New Zealand the selection is far smaller on the local auction site and the prices far higher. It's sort of take what you can get a lot of the time. Currently there is a single OM4 for $500 so if you want one that is what you pay, another might not come up for 6 months.
Sounds you need to find some other folks and make up a bulk buy from KEH!
I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.
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Sick of buying lenses that need work
Originally Posted by lxdude
Sounds you need to find some other folks and make up a bulk buy from KEH!
I used to do that with orders from Adorama, might have to do that with KEH, great idea!
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Originally Posted by hoffy
OK, considering your username is PentaxBronica, have you attacked many Bronica lenses? I have one where the flash won't fire (150mm PS) - how hard would that one be?
Nope, never needed to take one apart yet. I have had a couple of blank frames recently though, really need to work out whether they were a lens or body problem. There seems little pattern to them - had one on the second frame of a film (the rest were fine) and the other on the penultimate frame (the rest were fine, even the final one). I suspect it's a case of gear that needs more exercise.
The Bronica lenses have the shutter mechanism built in, so I wouldn't fancy opening one up.
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