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  1. #21
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigclu View Post
    Here are a couple of jpegs that I found of the quick guide. I'll post in case they're of use to others.
    Interesting, I did not know about that MF-feature.


    But how to operate the Focus-Hold (graphic #1) AND holding the camera properly ??

  2. #22

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    I'm awaiting response from Craig. I'm guessing it may answer my three questions (one of them I figured out already - the data imprint back). I shot a roll of it today. The camera seems to work fine, which is good. I have a handful of missed shots just because probably I'm trying to get used to the quirks of the camera (quite different from an SLR/TLR). Some of the shots though, gorgeous. I'll try and post some once I'm through scanning the roll.

    Some quick questions, though...

    Anybody have any tricks for making sure the exact point you're wanting to focus on is in fact in focus. I tried a shot of someone in a mirror, and it ended up focusing on the back, not the reflection in the mirror (the face). I guess just centre on the specific focal point and then re-adjust with the shutter halfway pressed.

    The other, bigger question is about failed shutter release. This doesn't happen often, but when it does, it is very annoying because with street you can miss a shot within a second. I know for a fact I'm further than 0.7m, so I shouldn't have the camera buggered up. However, I depress the shutter halfway to get the focus, then try to press all the way down, but when I do, nothing happens. The camera simply doesn't release the shutter and make an exposure. Very annoying.

    Otherwise, the camera is a delight. Absolutely awesome for street. I'm amazed at how little some people noticed me. So, so much quieter than my clunky F90 (and this is without silent mode). The photos are sharp and detailed. Lovely.
    cities & citizens - edmonton street photography (mostly), 100% film

  3. #23
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by h.v. View Post
    I guess just centre on the specific focal point and then re-adjust with the shutter halfway pressed.
    No, you have to press two buttons. Both on the right side. Needs two hands...
    That's what my question above is about.

  4. #24

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    That's manual focus, I'm talking about auto focus.
    cities & citizens - edmonton street photography (mostly), 100% film

  5. #25
    AgX
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    So, when would you use that "Focus Hold" ?

    And as you got that camera in hand meanwhile, how do achieve this very procedure?

  6. #26

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    I'm meaning that when you depress the shutter halfway, the camera will do the focus. If you keep the shutter depressed halfway, it will stay locked focus to that distance and you can move the camera to the framing you'd like. It's a bit difficult with fine focusing though. It'd be nice if it'd show you the focus in the viewfinder like on an SLR, but I'm sure I'll get used to it. OTOH, I got your e-mails Craig. Thank you. I'm still looking through them.

    I am still curious about the non-exposures I was dealing with though.
    cities & citizens - edmonton street photography (mostly), 100% film

  7. #27
    AgX
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    Maybe that "Focus-Hold" in post #19 is a focus-lock that remains after taking the finger off the release button again. With the camera on a tripod.
    In that case it would be possible to activate both buttons simultaneously, which would hardly be possible during normal handheld operation.

    May this be an explanation??

  8. #28

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    I'm joining this thread late and if it's been answered already, I apologize. The black Hexar had the silent mode. Not all the Hexar units made had that mode after they were sued by Minolta (ironic that Konica is now part of Minolta and Sony). Silent mode was truly one of the more important aspects of the camera and I wouldn't have purchased it if it didn't have it. To get silent mode you just need to press and hold the M button while the camera is off, then while still pressing M switch the camera on. If an "L" shows up next to your frame counter you're good to go.

    The date imprinting was only available on one or two models. Wish my black unit had it.

    I've been shooting with my Hexar since the 1990's or a few years after it came out. I purchased mine used and it was nothing but trouble when I first got it. It went back to Konica more times than I could count and it got to a point that Konica had the camera longer than I had it in my hands. However, after that initial pain I finally got to use it and it had been my go to camera for basically decades. Never had a problem since the initial days of ownership. I think 90% of my pictures were taken with the Hexar. I didn't post many of the pictures I took with the camera, but I did post some if you'd like examples. http://www.flickr.com/photos/nathant...7629604314421/

  9. #29

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    The Silver Hexar I got still can do silent mode, it just needs to be programmed. I am wondering, because someone said on the previous page I wouldn't need to reprogram it. So does that mean I can change batteries without reprogramming silent mode? Do I switch silent mode on and off like I would on a Black Hexar after its been programmed?

    I still am wondering about the shutter lock issue I was having. Could've it been the indoor lighting? I was doing a bunch of shooting Saturday, mostly outdoors, and didn't have an issue.

    I'll post some photos shortly.
    cities & citizens - edmonton street photography (mostly), 100% film

  10. #30
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    You'll definitiely need to program your Silver Hexar for silent mode (unless the previous owner already did that for you). However once it's programmed, it's in, you won't have to reprogram it each time. I update my black Hexar to get some of the additional features like spot metering in manual mode. It was easy to do if you follow the directions.
    - Abram

    35mm / 120

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