My first Canon ever: an AE-1 with 50/1.8 and 28/2.8 ;-) What do you think??

[brucemuir]

However none of the basic canons have that, just the L series glass.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

There is L glass for the older manual Canons also.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ontarian/6381067855/

There is also a manual
24 1.4L New-FD
50 1.2L New FD
85 1.2L New-FD

Scroll down this page for a tasty list of non L's…and these are only the N-FD range
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_FD_lens_mount

[StoneNYC]

There is L glass for the older manual Canons also.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ontarian/6381067855/

There is also a manual
24 1.4L New-FD
50 1.2L New FD
85 1.2L New-FD

Scroll down this page for a tasty list of non L's…and these are only the N-FD range
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_FD_lens_mount

There may be more, I believe the older FD white lenses had L glass too, especially the the giant primes... like the $2,000,000 give or take a mill or two, 1600mm prime lens... it's pretty damn awesome, would like to see a nikon beat that haha.

or the 8mm prime was pretty nice too... though Nikon has Canon beat on that with a 6mm prime, a friend of mine actually has one, he bought it NEW for $20,000 for a job for an airline, they payed him about the same price, it was for interior cabin shots, film work really used to pay!

[brucemuir]

Yea, while alot of FD mount can be had for cheap the L's still retain a pretty penny for manual glass these days.
I'm all EOS these days so get the best of several worlds via adapters.

[TheToadMen]

Some interesting lens options out there, but I will restrain myself. I'm not gonna buy a lot of extra lenses (can't afford it) and stick to these two lenses for now.
Keeping in mind my favorite quote from Ansel Adams:

" ... avoiding the common illusion that creativity depends on equipment alone ..."

BTW: See also http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl for an interesting film about & with Ansel Adams from 1957.

[StoneNYC]

Some interesting lens options out there, but I will restrain myself. I'm not gonna buy a lot of extra lenses (can't afford it) and stick to these two lenses for now.
Keeping in mind my favorite quote from Ansel Adams:

" ... avoiding the common illusion that creativity depends on equipment alone ..."

BTW: See also http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl for an interesting film about & with Ansel Adams from 1957.

I may have a zoom lens for you, I have to check


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

[ntenny]

One of the nice things about Canon FD lenses is that there are a lot of third-party lenses floating around, and it's cheap to do some bottom-feeding on eBay and experiment. I got a Kiron 80-200 zoom that way---I think it cost me ten bucks---that's stupidly sharp for a zoom lens and competitive with some respectable primes. There's a lot of rebranding (Vivitar never made lenses themselves, for instance, just branded lenses sourced from a bunch of Japanese manufacturers) and a lot of uncertainty, which kind of adds to the fun---you may get a terrific lens for cheap, you may get something so bad that it's kind of entertaining, or anything in between.

-NT

[Markster]

The battery door is replacable, as mentioned above. However, it is not replacable by the user. You need to remove the top of the camera, and it is complicated and difficult. You need to take it in and have the door replaced by an actual person or shop that does that kind of thing.

I read one web write-up describing how one guy forced the pin with needle nose pliars without removing the top, but I have been unable to get my pin to budge even with excessive force. I dare not risk the camera.

Best thing for the battery door is the "action grip" that screws over top of it. That will keep the sucker in place even after you break it, most times. What it doesn't keep in place a bit of electrical tape will do.

I have an AE-1P. It was my first SLR, and I still use it today. It is amazing in its simplicity and ease-of-use but will still allow you to do almost anything you want.

P.S. If you want shutter priority, set the shutter to program and manually select your f-stop. It will adjust accordingly. If you want aperture priority, set manual shutter speed and set f-stop to A or "dot". It will adjust accordingly. If you want it to think for you, set to program and A or "dot." Or it's nearly perfectly suited for full manual as well. The only thing I missed (and only on occassion) was an f-stop readout in the light meter LEDs. It wasn't necessary, though, and the shutter dial was so perfectly placed I could notch it up or down on the fly without even thinking for a fast light meter adjustment.

Awesome camera. Will last you 20 years if you CLA it once in a while.

[AgX]

To my understanding not the door would brake but the lock. This could be replaced by taking from a spare door.

[EASmithV]

To be a jerk, canon GROWS their glass (some of it) which isn't glass it's a crystal, it cuts down heavily on CA, something Nikon can't do. So :-p

However none of the basic canons have that, just the L series glass.


~Stone

Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1, 5DmkII / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

that's funny, when you compare new canon kit lenses for digi they had TONS of CA, while the respective nikkors are much, much better

[Markster]

To my understanding not the door would brake but the lock. This could be replaced by taking from a spare door.

That's one minor problem. Another problem I've experienced as well as heard about was the part where the door hinges/connects. There is a thin loophole of plastic through which a metal pin passes. A spring around the pin pushes the door away from the camera body. If one of the plastic loops (one top, one bottom) snaps you can still keep the door shut with some ease, however if both snap (as mine currently have, one then the other some time later) you will need the action grip and a bit of electrical tape.


Well, any tape will do, really... but the electrical is black and tacky enough to hold but soft enough to peel away when you need to get the battery in or out. Just about the right tape for the job!