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  1. #31
    Roger Cole's Avatar
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    True enough. It may or may not be a factor.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Burk View Post
    Great thing about the L208, even if you later acquire a bigger, better meter... This one will always have a place.

    It is small, light and accurate.

    I'm just tearing out my hair trying to figure out a Zone System dial for it.

    Think I will design an acetate glue-on for the green match-needle.
    Depending on how handy you are, you could convert the moveable short single pointer to a sawtooth pointer with each point being a zone apart. Probably too small to put numbers on it, but paint the middle point a contrasting color and just count up or down from there to use it.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    Depending on how handy you are, you could convert the moveable short single pointer to a sawtooth pointer with each point being a zone apart. Probably too small to put numbers on it, but paint the middle point a contrasting color and just count up or down from there to use it.
    I was going to glue something like a comb to it.

  4. #34
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    If you are buying new, my stupid answer is to get one of those modern instruments which have reflected, incident, flash and spot metering all in one device.
    Reasons to do it:
    - you get more light metering for your bucks;
    - in the future those device might become more expensive than they are now;
    - you can explore different techniques without having to buy a new device (which might actually prevent experimentation);
    - you travel lighter than if you have to carry incident and spot (one day you will consider it if you use slides).

    If you buy second-hand, any modern silicon blue cell (SBC) light meter will do great, especially if you don't choose out of the usual suspects (Minolta/Kenko, Gossen, Sekonic). Your most important choice will be between analogue reading and digital reading.
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
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  5. #35

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    diapositivo is right!
    If you don't need a meter you don't need a meter.
    If you want one, get a good one. I think the meter market is going and when it comes to that like film scanner they don't make them any more and the price goes up. Well they would still make light measuring instruments but not exposure meter and those are much more expensive although are very nice.

  6. #36
    Ari
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    I have both the Sekonic 308 and Minolta IVf; both take one AA battery, both are very accurate, and both are workhorses; they just keep on going.
    And mint copies of each can be had for $150 or less.

  7. #37
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    I have a Polaris 5, its not as popular or well know as all the other ones mentioned already, but its a good meter and accurate. Lots of options, and has a 5 degree meter which is the same spot as the sekonic L408. Runs on 1 AA battery, has a backlight, and can meter for strobes. You can get them used for $100 now as they arent as popular. I got mine awhile ago for $150 pretty much NIB and it has held up well.

  8. #38

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    If you have an iPhone, there is a 99 cent app for that: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pock...381698089?mt=8

  9. #39

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    Does anyone make a serious test of these Iphone meter apps and see what kind of accuracy they have? Also anyone knows how they does it?

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chan Tran View Post
    Does anyone make a serious test of these Iphone meter apps and see what kind of accuracy they have? Also anyone knows how they does it?
    Serious test? Not I. But I have compared it to my Luna-Pro SBC and to my Soligor spot meter and find it agrees quite closely. I'd use it in a pinch.

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