I use Nikon F4's
Considering the 'hassle' involved with the de-clicking of the AI/AI-S lenses(5 of them total), THEN paying to get them each individually t-stopped, I'm guessing that it'll probably be upwards of ~$1k or so, thats a LOT of film for the freezer !
So, seeing that I'm NOT doing any video work, just stills, I've realized that it's not going to be worth it.
Your original findings are interesting though; it makes me want to do DOF tests also. I wonder if making multiple shots with the same exposure would still show discrepancies.
Thanks for the clarification and the nice writing!
Originally Posted by benveniste
Zenit 11, 12XP
Nikon F4, F4S, F401S, F601, F801, F801S, F50, F55, F60, F65, F70, F75, F80, F90, F90X, EL2, FE, FM, FG, FG-20, EM
It's easier to calibrate people than to recalibrate lenses to T-stops. Once you've determined the required offset to correct to T-stops, apply it when calculating the desired exposure.
I found the apertures on Nikkor lenses are very accurate. I have no complain. I found even with the F5 the shutter speed accuracy still not very good.
Originally Posted by LJSLATER
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Are you also going to get the shutter speeds checked for accuracy and, more importantly, repeatability?
I assume you're not using TTL metering? If you are, T-stops won't help you because the camera is not measuring what the aperture says it is - it's measuring the light that's being transmitted when stopped down to that aperture. An inaccurate shutter or sticky diaphragm can contribute to exposure errors of course (as can a miscalibrated mirror) but getting the camera and lens properly adjusted should eliminate the problem completely.
If you're using a handheld meter, I can see the benefit in T-stops but the light transmission of most lenses for 35mm photography is so good, it isn't likely to make a significant enough difference, even with chrome film. You'd need 15 or 18 elements, I'd think, before it started to make enough of a difference compared to using f/stops.
Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.
Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?
Not sure if you're talking to the other(F5) guy or me;
If me, I DO use a handheld meter. Hardly ever use the in-camera meter unless I seemingly forgot to put the meter in the bag prior to departure .
A cinema-meter in fact, a Spectra IV digital. Wonderful meter, super accurate, and great for VERY low-light exposures as well(which I'm starting to do more of, @ dusk, etc...)
I was under the impression that T-Stops hade to be recalibrated every so often... I imagine that'd be fairly pricey in the long run.
"Art is is a picture of some dude I never met smoking under a lamppost at 6400 ISO and in BW."
if you really need to be sure, you can always use stop-down metering if your camera provides it. The difference between your measurement off-camera and the value measured via TTL should remain constant with changing f-stops. You will probably never catch the source for the minor variations you describe, though. I'd start with having the shutter checked and - if neccessary - calibrated.