I use Nikon F4's
Considering the 'hassle' involved with the de-clicking of the AI/AI-S lenses(5 of them total), THEN paying to get them each individually t-stopped, I'm guessing that it'll probably be upwards of ~$1k or so, thats a LOT of film for the freezer !
So, seeing that I'm NOT doing any video work, just stills, I've realized that it's not going to be worth it.
Your original findings are interesting though; it makes me want to do DOF tests also. I wonder if making multiple shots with the same exposure would still show discrepancies.
Thanks for the clarification and the nice writing!
Originally Posted by benveniste
Fed 2, 4, 5
Zenit 11, 12XP
Olympus OM-1 MD, OM-1N, OM-2N, OM-2SP, OM10, OMG
A bunch of Nikons
It's easier to calibrate people than to recalibrate lenses to T-stops. Once you've determined the required offset to correct to T-stops, apply it when calculating the desired exposure.
I found the apertures on Nikkor lenses are very accurate. I have no complain. I found even with the F5 the shutter speed accuracy still not very good.
Originally Posted by LJSLATER
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Are you also going to get the shutter speeds checked for accuracy and, more importantly, repeatability?
I assume you're not using TTL metering? If you are, T-stops won't help you because the camera is not measuring what the aperture says it is - it's measuring the light that's being transmitted when stopped down to that aperture. An inaccurate shutter or sticky diaphragm can contribute to exposure errors of course (as can a miscalibrated mirror) but getting the camera and lens properly adjusted should eliminate the problem completely.
If you're using a handheld meter, I can see the benefit in T-stops but the light transmission of most lenses for 35mm photography is so good, it isn't likely to make a significant enough difference, even with chrome film. You'd need 15 or 18 elements, I'd think, before it started to make enough of a difference compared to using f/stops.
Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.
Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?
Not sure if you're talking to the other(F5) guy or me;
If me, I DO use a handheld meter. Hardly ever use the in-camera meter unless I seemingly forgot to put the meter in the bag prior to departure .
A cinema-meter in fact, a Spectra IV digital. Wonderful meter, super accurate, and great for VERY low-light exposures as well(which I'm starting to do more of, @ dusk, etc...)
I was under the impression that T-Stops hade to be recalibrated every so often... I imagine that'd be fairly pricey in the long run.
"Art is is a picture of some dude I never met smoking under a lamppost at 6400 ISO and in BW."
if you really need to be sure, you can always use stop-down metering if your camera provides it. The difference between your measurement off-camera and the value measured via TTL should remain constant with changing f-stops. You will probably never catch the source for the minor variations you describe, though. I'd start with having the shutter checked and - if neccessary - calibrated.