Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,299   Posts: 1,535,791   Online: 706
      
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    133
    I have a litmus test I've set on, just to keep myself from throwing too much of my life away repairing and restoring things. In the matter of a camera, I ask myself if I could fix it up good as new and stand on a street corner trying to GIVE it away.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Colorado
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    59
    I went and took a few test shots to try the camera out. It is underexposing a bit and the focus point is just behind what I'm focusing on. I'll make one more tweak and call it good. I tried the looking into the camera with a second camera method followed by looking at the film plane. For my eyes, looking at the film plane was difficult, would work better with a magnifier which I didn't have handy. I used the split prism of the reference camera. In the end, I expect the camera to work fine. I am now going through a rebuild of a Mamiya 1000DTL, same kind of focus screen setup.

    Joel
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails can.png   grain.png  

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    133
    Quote Originally Posted by Joel_L View Post
    I went and took a few test shots to try the camera out. It is underexposing a bit and the focus point is just behind what I'm focusing on. I'll make one more tweak and call it good. I tried the looking into the camera with a second camera method followed by looking at the film plane. For my eyes, looking at the film plane was difficult, would work better with a magnifier which I didn't have handy. I used the split prism of the reference camera. In the end, I expect the camera to work fine. I am now going through a rebuild of a Mamiya 1000DTL, same kind of focus screen setup.

    Joel
    A Mamiya/Sekor 1000 DTL--what a camera! If I may put in 2¢ before you start, do some meter calibration first, to see if the 2 meters can be pulled into agreement. You might find that the meter cell behind the mirror is weak and cannot be done. To me, that dictates the whole rebuild practicality on that model. I'm telling you what though--in it's day it was the most under rated camera of all. Perfect exposure every negative. The camera goes off with a silky-smooth "flop", and the wind is so sweet. Terrific camera.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Colorado
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    59
    Actually, I did do the meter. The spot and the average seem to be within 1/2 stop of each other ( I found the most weighted area of the average by moving the camera around while metering, then moved the spot to the same area, seems to be within 1/2 a stop ). I have 2 1000DTLs, one to use for parts and one that was reasonably clean and apparently an updated design ( slight differences in construction ). Unfortunately the parts camera ( has many issues ) winds smooth as silk. The better over all body that is getting worked on has a tight spot while winding but not always. I'm still looking into that though it does not seem to affect overall function. My first 35mm was a 1000TL ( maybe was a 500TL ) that my dad gave me when I was 8 or so he bought new a few years earlier. It disappeared in my early teens but oddly I still have the original 50mm F2 lens that was on it. For the past many decades I have been using it as a loupe. Now it will have a home on the DTL.

    Joel

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    133
    The 1000DTL was my first real camera too--Christmas 1972. The camera came out around 1968 I believe. The difference in construction was that in the earlier versions, the power to the meter was turned on when you push in on the wind lever. The problem was that often the little tang on the contact inside the bottom cover would eventually break off due to metal fatigue. In later models, the meter was on all the time the wind lever was pulled out (like a Nikon or Nikkormat). And to turn it off, you pushed the top button which brought the lever to the inward stowed rest position. You should be able to get a little better accuracy than 1/2 stop. I'd say that 1/4 to 1/3 is possible. I did.
    Last edited by HTF III; 04-22-2013 at 10:28 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelling

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Colorado
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    59

    Mamiya 1000 DTL

    I got hold of a Mamiya service manual. Now the spot and average are matched when pointed into my light box. Ran a roll of film through and everything looks good. Happy I was able to get this one working well. Now I will get back to the final tweaks on the Vivitar

    Joel

    Quote Originally Posted by HTF III View Post
    The 1000DTL was my first real camera too--Christmas 1972. The camera came out around 1968 I believe. The difference in construction was that in the earlier versions, the power to the meter was turned on when you push in on the wind lever. The problem was that often the little tang on the contact inside the bottom cover would eventually break off due to metal fatigue. In later models, the meter was on all the time the wind lever was pulled out (like a Nikon or Nikkormat). And to turn it off, you pushed the top button which brought the lever to the inward stowed rest position. You should be able to get a little better accuracy than 1/2 stop. I'd say that 1/4 to 1/3 is possible. I did.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin