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  1. #1

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    Nikon F100 - [ ] vs [+] mode?

    Hi all,

    So I've been struggling with my Nikon F100 for quite a while. Every roll of film put through (and with various manual and autofocus lenses) have images that turn out just slightly out of focus. However, there are times when it is in focus and I'm wondering: Does selecting [ ] vs [+] on the back make a difference? In this last roll I tried both options and some images worked and others didn't... and I'm wondering if this is the deciding factor.

    Note that I use only one single point of focus (the center).

    I'm shooting various MF/AF lenses and respond to the green dot. I've checked the focus green dot and it's pretty spot on (green dot as well as viewfinder). But the images, for whatever reason, just don't correspond as being in focus also.

    If anyone can share their experience, that'd be great!!

    -dugrant153-

  2. #2

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    I mostly use my F100 in single area AF [] mode with AF lenses. I also use manual focus lens. There's the occasional out-of-focus frame, but not too often; and no more frequently than with my Nikon FE using the same lenses.

  3. #3

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    [] is single area focus mode and [+] is dynamic area focus mode. Very similar to the current DSLR's. I use Dynamic area mode with continuous focus to track moving subjects and single area with single servo AF for most other subjects. You can get the user manual from the Nikon USA site..... I'll get the link. Remember in continuous it is release priority so the shutter will release even if AF does not detect "in-focus". Single servo is focus priority so it will not release the shutter until focus is locked. Another thing you may want to check is your preferences: By default if you are in [+] area mode in single servo the AF system uses all 5 focus points to detect and focus on the closest subject. By default in continuous mode closest subject is disabled in [+] so that it tracks what you put under the selected focus point. You'll need to play with it a good bit and experiment to see what setup works best for you. It took a few rolls of film for me to figure it out. Another thing I do is disable autofocus on the shutter release and use the focus button only. This gives me the advantages of a manual focus camera with the speed of autofocus. IMHO, with the exception of the F6 the F100 is probably the best implementation of an autofocus 35mm SLR out there. But I am a Nikon fan......

    http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/archive/F100_En.pdf

    Page 39 discusses AF Area modes
    Last edited by Lamar; 04-17-2013 at 09:00 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #4

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    There was a note by the American Ken Rockwell who gives a good report into mainly Nikon equipment He mentions in one of his test reports that his F100 and I think the F80 did not like the Nikkor 28/105D lens and the focussing was not quite right. I had one of these lenses a while back and certainly didn't have a problem with it on my F100. It may be down to the particular lens/camera you are using.
    The only lens I have ever had which didn't like the focussing of both a F100 and a D200 was a Tokina 80-400. That was put down to old and not fully compatible electronics because when it was focused manually, it was superb.

  5. #5

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    How is your eye sight? if it is good, and the diopter is set correctly you should be able to tell visually if the focus is right. If what you see is in focus and the images are not then may be something is wrong within the prism or the mirror or the film pressure plate. I do shoot F100 regularly and never had a problem with focus, but I remember I did have a problem with a Pentax 6x7 that gave sharper images when tilted down and a little out focus otherwise. I changed the prism seal which allowed it to sit tight and the problem was solved. Of course you have a fixed prism here but still the idea is that if the visual is different than the captured then it's either your sight, the prism, the mirror or the pressure plate.

  6. #6

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    Nikon F100 - [ ] vs [+] mode?

    I'm sure there is mention of F100 focus problems on Ken Rockwells site. You should check that out, if you haven't already seen it.

  7. #7
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    [+] is best used only when you have moving subjects and you want the camera to track the subject, which might move from AF sensor to AF sensor. [ ] is best used the rest of the time - use the pad to manually select the best AF sensor, then focus and shoot.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?



 

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