Do you really mean 8%? 92% off would be seriously off!
Originally Posted by HTF III
Or do you mean that the coverage is 92%?
"People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.
Looks like $250 is the going rate for the 35mm f/2
Is there any zooms that go from let's say 28-70 or anything that's worth considering. I've been a prime guy, but I am thinking this will be motor winder + wide/mid zoom for quick shooting.
A word of caution, I had a a F, and an F2 once and 100% viewfinder coverage although in theory it may seem ideal it can be a pain unless you are involved in scientific photography because if you shoot slides the masking on the mounts loses a percentage of the composition and the same applies to negative carriers of enlargers unless you file them out, I now use a couple of Canon New F1's that offer 97% viewfinder coverage, the 3% solves the problem for me, I can now compose right to the edges of the visible frame knowing that I'm not going to lose anything.
Originally Posted by Les Sarile
Originally Posted by LiamG
I love AF Nikkors; my favorite are the AF-D varieties. All the AF-D primes I've used have had surprisingly good manual focusing rings. They are also the most universal lenses: they can be mounted to and metered with virtually any Nikon, from pre-AI cameras to the latest digital bodies.
I like the pro F series, so I too would recommend an F3 or F3HP (I like the F2 better, but I think the F3 is more accessible to the average user as it is smaller, lighter, more refined).
Lastly, with regards to motor drives, my favorite is probably the MD-12. It has some annoying quirks (it jams when improperly used), and it is loud, but it's extremely comfortable in the hand, it can be added to and removed from the camera without fear of light leaks, it is small and light, and it is very inexpensive.
Good point. I'm extremely compulsive, so I NEED to have a 100% viewfinder. This also means I've filed my negative carrier on my enlarger, and I leave my slides unmounted which is fine except I can't project them.
Originally Posted by benjiboy
It's probably easier for most to use a viewfinder with 95-97% coverage.
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Or use 100% for all except slides, then use a 97% viewfinder camera, like an FE or? I never found it that hard to allow some space when shooting slides with my F3.
Originally Posted by LJSLATER
I feel like I opened up a Pandora's Box here. I guess I need to start making some decisions. Because we also have a D series Nikon camera, another thought it to get a N90s with a motorwind and then go for those first gen lenses and be happy with it. Just never used those before.
I have a 35-105 on my F3 and a 28-85 autofocus on my F4. I like short zooms for the convenience. But the cost is a slower lens.
About zooms. If you have a MANUAL focus lens, then a 1-ring push/pull zoom focus ring is great. If you have an AUTOFOCUS lens on an autofocus body, then a 2-ring zoom would work, and you just ignore the focus ring.
WARNING. If you need to service a zoom, expect it to cost a LOT $$$. This is simply because the zoom mechanism makes it more time consuming to disassemble and reassemble (and colimate) than a prime lens. I was given a $200+ estimate to CLA my 80-200/f4 zoom.
I prefer the F3 w/o a motor. w/o the motor, it is easier to handle and lighter. The times that I wanted a motor drive is less than 1/10 of 1%, so I feel it is not worth it, unless its is free. But then how much less would the F3 be w/o the "free" motor drive?
An F4 would give you the high shutter speeds, along with a 100% viewinder, but it's big and heavy. Newer models like the N8008s, the N90s, and the F100 give you great capability with high shutter speeds, and are proven reliable, also. The N8008s and N90S are really dirt cheap these days. I don't have a problem focusing manually with these AF cameras, but if it is a problem, you can get an aftermarket screen.
I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.
On KEH for example, yes. I've been looking for one on the bay, and some examples from respectable (enough) sellers just sold for about USD 150. Not sure about you, but I've taken a plunge a few times and wasn't disappointed. Just give it time and inspect the seller's history thoroughly. Just a rule of thumb: don't look at anyone that has < 99.7% positive feedback
Originally Posted by Klainmeister
The used market in the USA is nice, but since shipping prices and import taxes are quite substantial, I've been forced to rely on the auction site more.