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  1. #21

    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Aurora, IL
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1,940
    The Sekonic 308 has a 40 degrees angle when measuring reflected light. That's the same coverage of a 50mm lens but the Nikon is center weighted giving more weight to the center thus their readings are a bit higher. The FE#2 is different from #1 about 1/2 stop which is normal. When measuring incident light the Sekonic read 2 stop lower because the wall is about 80% reflectance instead of 18%. Pointing the reflected light meter toward lens or pointing the dome toward the subject when in incident mode don't make good reading. So I have to concluded that there was something wrong with the 35mm lens. Having wider angle should result in somewhat lower reading but not as much as the OP experienced.

  2. #22

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Adirondacks
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    3,325
    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    Hi, I realize I am a new member here so I don't want anyone getting the wrong idea. I have been busy this past weekend or else I would have done a retest! I am very appreciative of everyone chiming in with their theories. Let me try to answer as many questions as I can!


    • Yes, I will try the test again with your suggestions - same batteries in both cameras and preferably a white wall that fills up the entire frame.
    • Lenses: as far as I can tell, here are the stats of the lenses
      • 50mm f/1.8 Nikkor, Type Ai, made 1978-1982
      • 35mm f/2.0, Type K, made 1975-1977

    • I cannot see that the 35mm is damaged at all or anything looks out of place. Of course, I am not an expert on these lenses. I will say that nothing looks GLARINGLY wrong such as chips, dents, bends etc.
    • Despite both cameras being Nikon FE's (not FE2 or FM, etc), if I look into the lens coupling, they look slightly different. I am not sure why or how this is possible. I will attach a picture tonight.
    • Why would a Pre-AI lens cause a problem? I bought the FE because I read it was one of the most reliable film SLR's and it's advantage over it's newer counterparts was that it could accept ALL lenses.
    • I am very careful putting on the 35mm lens on my second FE body. I can't see any issue with me using the wrong angle or too much or too little force or cramming anything in. It's VERY stiff though when attaching and turning the aperture wheel takes two hands, one to steady the lens body and one to twist the ring. Certainly very disconcerting.


    Thanks again for everyone's help. I secretly hope it's an issue with it being Pre-Ai ... can someone explain that to me?
    There's your problem."[*]35mm f/2.0, Type K, made 1975-1977". This lens does not couple with the meter in your camera, it is what's called a "pre-Ai" lens. If you look in the instruction manual for your camera, it will explain how to use stop-down metering.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Adirondacks
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    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    ...snip[*]I am very careful putting on the 35mm lens on my second FE body. I can't see any issue with me using the wrong angle or too much or too little force or cramming anything in. It's VERY stiff though when attaching and turning the aperture wheel takes two hands, one to steady the lens body and one to twist the ring. Certainly very disconcerting.[/LIST]

    Thanks again for everyone's help. I secretly hope it's an issue with it being Pre-Ai ... can someone explain that to me?
    This should have been your first clue. Nothing, absolutely nothing on any camera requires that much force unless something is very very wrong. Whenever something requires that much force to move, STOP and find out why.

  4. #24

    Join Date
    May 2013
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    9
    Hi everyone, thanks again for your expertise and help. I am new to all this and learned lots about the different Nikon lenses and the the mechanics of the camera. I tried flipping the tab up and of course the 35mm fits like a treat. Now I need to figure out stop down metering (by reading the manual).

    Lamar your photos were ESPECIALLY helpful. Thank you for uploading them.

  5. #25

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    308
    Stop down metering is exactly what is
    Hit the DOF preview to stop down the lens, take your reading and shoot
    or in AE mode, press down DOF preview, and shoot

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Georgia, USA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    211
    No problem. Glad to help.... As was said in other posts, since the meter on your FE is not coupled to the lens aperture ring when using pre-Ai lenses you have to set the aperture you want and press the depth of field preview button (lever). This will cause the aperture to stop down so you can get a true meter reading. I typically select the aperture I want in manual exposure mode, press and hold the DOF preview button, then adjust my shutter speed to get the correct exposure. Once it's set you can release the DOF button and take the shot. I always use manual exposure mode when I'm using stopped down metering. As GarageBoy says, to use aperture priority mode you can just hold down the DOF button compose and take your shot.


    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    Hi everyone, thanks again for your expertise and help. I am new to all this and learned lots about the different Nikon lenses and the the mechanics of the camera. I tried flipping the tab up and of course the 35mm fits like a treat. Now I need to figure out stop down metering (by reading the manual).

    Lamar your photos were ESPECIALLY helpful. Thank you for uploading them.

  7. #27

    Join Date
    May 2013
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    9
    Hi guys, thanks for explaining what stop down metering was. I had no idea but I did sort of figure it out on my own. When I pushed the DOF button, I noticed the meter responded and would change depending on the aperture chosen. I feel really relieved that I can use my non-Ai lenses now on my FE.

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