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  1. #11

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    Look at the film counter, give the rewind crank a few turns, see if the advance will wind
    Windows are nice, but not necessary

  2. #12
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Been thar. Done dat!

    Rewind the film and get it developed. You will probably only lose a few photographs.

    Welcome to the club. If you really want to have screw ups, try large format photography.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  3. #13

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    OK, here's the results. 10 shots ruined out of 36. Not too bad I guess. Lesson learned!!!

  4. #14
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    That's good...

    -J
    APUG: F4, F2AS, F, Nikomat FTn
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  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    OK, here's the results. 10 shots ruined out of 36. Not too bad I guess. Lesson learned!!!
    That's par for the course, no doubt. I am glad for your sake, and the info is useful too.

    One of the things you have to watch out for with the manual bodies is that the film leader actually catches. If it doesn't, it will advance the film counter without advancing the film. That is one more reason to wind up the slack on the spool and check that the lever turns when you advance the film. This happened once or twice with me and caused me to lose good opportunities.

    I couldn't imagine a much better travel camera than an FM2 with a few small primes. The FM2n I have cost me $15, missing a battery holder. I grafted one from a smashed up F3, and now have a fully functional camera for next to nothing. The guy who sold it to me got it with a lens, and he is shooting D only. So when he bought a lens from me and I asked what else he had, he showed me the lenses and also the FM2n as if he had no idea what it was. When I asked whether he'd sell it, he said just give me $15. I didn't complain . Still looking for that FM3A bargain, though.

  6. #16
    AgX
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    That's why there are cameras that wind the exposed film into a covered chamber, or wind the film at the start completely onto an open spool and wind exposed film back into the cassette.


    Strange enough there seems to be no design with a secured back door lock that only opens when there is no uncoverd film in the film chamber. (This needed to include an overide in case of malfunction).

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    That's why there are cameras that wind the exposed film into a covered chamber, or wind the film at the start completely onto an open spool and wind exposed film back into the cassette.


    Strange enough there seems to be no design with a secured back door lock that only opens when there is no uncoverd film in the film chamber. (This needed to include an overide in case of malfunction).
    Well, it's only a problem if you want it to be.
    When you load the film, take up the slack with the rewind knob/crank. The rewind will then turn as you advance the film, giving a positive indication that a) there is film in the thing, and b) it is advancing properly. Before opening the back, try the rewind to be certain that the film has either been rewound into the cassete, or is not present. Simple. Too difficult to do this? Get a digicam.

  8. #18
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RattyMouse View Post
    OK, here's the results. 10 shots ruined out of 36. Not too bad I guess. Lesson learned!!!
    You will probably not make that mistake again. Other mistakes? Probably.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

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