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  1. #21
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    It may be 50 years old, but I will not cost you much to replace it as it originally costs adjusted for inflation.
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #22

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    Definition - Flatulance- ambulance for things run over by road rollers......
    I am so glad you did fail to topple down the stairwell.
    I'm have a nice Nikon digital telephoto with dangling camera ribbon cables and parts on my lab desk.
    It's my be careful reminder.
    Best wishes for your further shooting with the new body.

  3. #23

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    Here's a genuine Honeywell H3v here.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONEYWELL-PE...item338384f216

  4. #24
    AOCo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link. I have a couple of very good shape Spotmatic F's that I should wear out before I get another camera on the shelf, maybe I won't live long enough for that... I will try to be careful, these being as old as me deserve some precautions. Pentax SVs are not that frequent though. I found that the film rewind is so much smoother that the spotmatics, I might still try to find another one.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by E. von Hoegh View Post
    Once when I was working on a camera I mixed up the shims which ensure that the lens mounting flange is the corrrect distance from and parralel to the filmplane. Here's what I did: The flange is mounted on a diecast plate which is fastened to the main body casting by four screws. The shims went between this plate and the main casting.
    I set the body (with the back removed) on a granite surface plate, supported by .5000" gauge blocks on the film rails. Using a .0001" resolution dial indicator set to zero at the flange distance + .5000, I shimmed the front plate until it was parralel to and the correct distance from the filmplane, taking the time to rub the shims on a stone until the flange was spot on, within the ability of my measuring tools - say within .000020".
    Then, I put a groundglass at the filmplane and adjusted the focussing screen until the focus at the filmplane matched the focus in the viewfinder, using a viewfinder magnifier.

    My point here is, once a camera becomes misaligned it's no small job to put it right - and one needs special tools; I did this in the gauge room of a machineshop which I am very lucky to have access to, using tens of thousands of dollars worth of tools and equipment which most people don't have access to.
    What kind of camera were you working on that had shims in it? I've worked on a number of Japanese 35's and have not run up on any shims yet. Thanks.

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    What kind of camera were you working on that had shims in it? I've worked on a number of Japanese 35's and have not run up on any shims yet. Thanks.
    LTM Leicas for one. Between the lens mount and body sleeve. Also some Pentax. they're usually glued to the front plate and may not discombobulate themselves when they're taken apart.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by AOCo View Post
    Thanks for the link. I have a couple of very good shape Spotmatic F's that I should wear out before I get another camera on the shelf, maybe I won't live long enough for that... I will try to be careful, these being as old as me deserve some precautions. Pentax SVs are not that frequent though. I found that the film rewind is so much smoother that the spotmatics, I might still try to find another one.
    Those SPF's were nice cameras. I bought one of the first ones back in 74 as a teenager. But I was always put-off by the lens cap as your meter switch.

  8. #28
    ambaker's Avatar
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    Was wondering pretty much the same thing here...

    I have a MIR-1 M39 lens that does not have an infinity stop. Normally a M39 lens will not focus to infinity on an EOS body. But this one will, because of the missing stop. Unless the focusing screen is off, I've always found whatever is sharp in the viewfinder, to be sharp on the film...


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  9. #29
    AOCo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Koehrer View Post
    LTM Leicas for one. Between the lens mount and body sleeve. Also some Pentax. they're usually glued to the front plate and may not discombobulate themselves when they're taken apart.

    The SV has some too, precisely to adjust the lens mount. I found that my camera only had one mounted, though. I don't think I will embark into trying to add some, since I believe you it's not an easy thing.

  10. #30
    AOCo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    Those SPF's were nice cameras. I bought one of the first ones back in 74 as a teenager. But I was always put-off by the lens cap as your meter switch.
    Yes, that is a real pain, but mostly when the lens has a hood that you need to unscrew before to put the cap back on.

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