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Thread: Pentax K1000

  1. #11
    GRHazelton's Avatar
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    For whatever reason the meter has no on/off switch, the user is expected to put a lens cap on to "turn off" the meter. Mike Butkus has the manual here: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/...ntax_k1000.htm It is a good introduction to the Pentax system and is about as reliable as a hammer. I never understood why a DOF preview was omitted, I'd think that would be a simple thing to engineer. Jon Goodman who posts to APUG has foam kits available jgood21967@aol.com for a large number of cameras with instructions, etc. Truly a "Goodman."

  2. #12

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    Regarding the foam seals, the upper seal looks fine, but the lower is a little sticky. Some of the foam is stuck to the door, not a large amount. The felt by the hinge is ok.

    I would also like to add that the foam by the mirror is in very good condition.

  3. #13

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    Replace all the foam when you replace one strip.
    Good foam will spring back to it's original height immediately after being compressed. In a camera this old the mirror foam may not have much life left and when it deteriorates and gets sticky it's a PITA to get residue off the (front surface) mirror.

    If your screen is split image, it will have either a very fine horizontal or diagonal line in the center. If you focus on a vertical line and have two images in the center, that's split. Microprism is also very common, this one the center breaks up into small prism like areas. To focus just adjust 'til it's smooth. Frequently you can find a comera that has a split center surrounded by a microprism collar.
    Heavily sedated for your protection.

  4. #14

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    Thanks John, I have a microprism which is a real treat to use compared to what I'm use to with my Canon EF lenses.

  5. #15
    Pioneer's Avatar
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    I went for a long, long, long, long, long time before I had the light seals replaced and never had any trouble with light leaks. YMMV. But I immediately changed the mirror bumper when it began to deteriorate. This was for several reasons. First, a deteriorating mirror bumper will change your focus point. Not much but it can be enough when shooting wide open to cause some problems. Second, the mirror will stick up sometimes which is a pain. But most important, if the mirror bumper starts to fall apart and the small, sticky pieces get caught in your shutter...I don't think I have to go on as I am sure you get the picture. The result is not pretty.

    Beyond that the K1000 is about as bullet proof as they come. It is so simple that there really is not much that can go wrong. Even the battery is optional. I shot mine for years with no battery at all using just the Sunny 16 rules. Where I lived at the time there were not many stores handy, the Grocery Store was over 80 miles away. When I did make it to a store I didn't remember that I needed a battery, and when I picked up the camera and remembered the battery, I was nowhere near the store. No internet then and mail ordering a single battery just didn't make sense.

    The split image is nice, but now that I am older and my eyes are not all they used to be, I find the simple microprism circle seems to work better for me.

  6. #16

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    Replace the seals right away since some are sticky. My old Contax 139 got like that before I knew it and some of the sticky seal material crumbled and got on my focussing screen and made a mess.

    Congratulations on the camera. K1000's are great. A good friend of mine bought one in the early 1980's and it still works fine. Back then they were the most highly recommended 35mm cameras by college photography teachers. They were great reliable cameras with quality lenses for a relatively inexpensive price.

  7. #17
    JohnRichard's Avatar
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    I have THREE. I have never had an issue out of any of them. One I dropped, lens first onto pavement. . . works fine - that aperture ring is a bit hard to turn, and you can't thread filters on it anymore, AND something rattles a speeds slower than 1/60 BUT, it still works. Love it.
    - J. Richard
    4x5 Speed Graphic, Looking for another 8x10.

  8. #18

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    the meter should be good with any battery type I use the cheap Ch alkaline cells when I fit a battery

    there is a battery off switch but it is electronic if the camera is in the dark a semi conductor isolates the battery but light leaking into the eyepiece will leave the meter operational the scheme assumed use of an ERC or gbag.

    if you put the camera away remove the battery anyway.

    the brick shop price seems to be inflating...

  9. #19

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    The SE model had the split prism image while the standard version just has the magnifying center spot. I have a magnifier that clips on the viewfinder for close focus. I use that if I am using the bellows on it. I also have 3 ME Supers, MV, which set shutter automatically and warns if you get under 1/60m sec., PZ10, PZ20, and 110 with all the goodies. I kind oflike Pentax. There are also 14 lenses from fisheye to 400MM.

  10. #20
    frank's Avatar
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    K1000 is a quintessential simple, classic 35mm SLR. Is the Leica M2 RF of SLR's. it even doesn't have a DOF preview, like the M2. It's all that one needs for most types of photography.
    My blog / photo website: http://frankfoto.jimdo.com/

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