[QUOTE= it even doesn't have a DOF preview, like the M2. It's all that one needs for most types of photography.[/QUOTE]
Uhm I don't know if any rangefinder has the DOF preview feature.
You realized my joke.
Originally Posted by Chan Tran
(There actually is a DOF indication for f5.6 and f16 on the RF patch of M2's.)
Actually all Pentax K mount bodies have built-in DOF preview. You simply stop the lens down and release the lens without removing it and the blades will close down.
Originally Posted by frank
It also has built-in multiexposure. You simply make the first exposure, rewind until tight, press the film rewind button, advance the rapid wind lever then press the shutter for the second exposure of the same frame.
Last edited by Les Sarile; 07-16-2013 at 10:30 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Is there a better lens than the 50/f2 ?
- J. Richard
4x5 Speed Graphic, Looking for another 8x10.
The K1000 is the VW Beetle of 35mm SLR cameras. No frills but it works and works well. They have given years and years of yeoman's service to their owners and take wonderful photographs.
Sponsored Ad. (Subscribers to APUG have the option to remove this ad.)
Nothing to offer, just wanna say congrats to the OP! If I ever get a SLR, the K1000 is high on my list for sure hearing all these tough-as-nails and no-fuss-no-muss usability!
What do you mean by better?
Originally Posted by JohnRichard
Are there faster ones? Sure, Pentax has produced a 50/1.7, 50/1.4 and 50/1.2. They are all pretty good. The 50/1.4 is considered one of the best.
Closer focusing? Again, sure. Pentax has produced several 50mm Macro lenses over the years and they all focus in pretty tightly. Additionally, they tend to be pretty sharp lenses though most are slower than the 50/2.
But, the 50/2 is very consistent. It is consistently sharp across the field right from the maximum aperture. If you want a lens where you really do not have to worry whether the image will be acceptable no matter the aperture used, then the 50/2 is the right lens.
And should you ever dent it or break the glass, throw it in a drawer and get another off e-bay for $20 or less. There were a lot of these little beauties built and they are not all that popular today, ergo they are not being bid up by the collectors or "speculators."
Overall they are very, very good lenses at insanely good prices. But of course they are not very good at building egos, just good at taking pictures.
Last edited by Pioneer; 07-17-2013 at 12:38 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Phew. Glad I am done with that task. I just got done replacing the light seal on my K1000. Instead of using the same material, I ended up using black cotton yarn and some neoprene from an old mouse pad for the mirror bumper. Now the Pentax is ready for its test run.
Pioneer, I dispute your quote: "First, a deteriorating mirror bumper will change your focus point."
Pioneer, the 'focus point' as it appears in the VF is determined solely by the height that the front edge of the mirror is at when resting on the (in the case of the K1000) wire bracket (front, right, just under mirror's front, right edge). The 'deteriorating mirror bumper' (the foam that the mirror hits when an exposure is being made) is necessary to soften the mirror's impact and also disallow light from possibly fogging the film during exposure. But it has NOTHING to do with matching the apparent focus (VF) with actual focus (film plane). Of course, a deteriorating foam can cause a mess and can cause the mirror to annoyingly remain at the top for a few seconds due to stickiness.
In fact, I have, in the past, recommended that one should test this matching of 'apparent' (VF) and 'actual' (film plane) focus so that one can shoot wide open without focus worries. Do this: WIDE OPEN WITH A NORMAL OR LONG LENS, shoot a 'picket fence' type of object, 45 degrees from the camera, and focus PRECISELY at a determined point. Then process the negative and place it into your enlarger. (NOTE: it helps to slightly underexpose the negative so that the image from the enlarger will be bright and clear). Then determine where the ACTUAL focus is. Rule of thumb: IF ACTUAL FOCUS IS IN FRONT OF THE APPARENT FOCUS, lower front of mirror very, very slightly. IF ACTUAL FOCUS IS IN BACK OF THE APPARENT FOCUS, raise front of mirror very, very slightly. On the K1000 a very slight pressure on the metal bracket will do the trick. Some cameras are a bit more sophisticated like the Fuji ST series and, amazingly, the Soviet Zenit (!): they both have a set screw that the front of the mirror rests upon so simply turning it with a screwdriver is all that is needed.
Love the K1000 but despise its lack of self-timer. Mistake by Pentax. - David Lyga.
Last edited by David Lyga; 07-18-2013 at 09:43 AM. Click to view previous post history.
You guys are giving me GAS.
The K1000 was the first "real" camera I ever used, checked out from the high school photo club in 1974. I might have been the first person to use it after Mr Cowan, the principal. Loaded her up with Tri-x and boy, did I feel like a real photographer. Here's a couple of football action shots from those first rolls:
http://bhs.bagley.k12.mn.us/alumni/photos/MIKEMALM.JPG (Not exactly L.B. Jefferies, but I did pay a price for this one).
“You seek escape from pain. We seek the achievement of happiness. You exist for the sake of avoiding punishment. We exist for the sake of earning rewards. Threats will not make us function; fear is not our incentive. It is not death that we wish to avoid, but life that we wish to live.” - John Galt