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  1. #1
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    Where to get mirror sponge for F, F2, F3?

    Hi all,

    This sponge that make amortisation of mirror on my F2 fell off. I see on F is also old, so I am planing to get new ones for all 3 nikons that I have.

    Are they the same for F, F2, F3? Hard to get? They are on auction site, or somewhere else? Is there something I should be aware?

    thanks,

  2. #2

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    Make them. Get some foam material on ebay and get busy.

  3. #3

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    I've given up on putting foam in cameras. For things like mirror buffers I use black felt, and in the narrow channels for the back and other places I use black wool.

  4. #4

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    Speaking for myself I've been disappointed in it too. The original foam was typically very porous and compressible. It was specifically engineered by the camera manufacturer to be a good brake, and good cushion, and a good vibration damper, all in one. All the other foam is denser. You have to tinker with foaming and re-foaming with pieces you have to slit, till it's just right; or as right as it can be. Too thick and it may jam the camera or be rough on the mirror hinges. Too narrow, and the mirror will over-travel its intended distance, being hard on the hinges once again. PITA.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom1956 View Post
    Speaking for myself I've been disappointed in it too. The original foam was typically very porous and compressible. It was specifically engineered by the camera manufacturer to be a good brake, and good cushion, and a good vibration damper, all in one. All the other foam is denser. You have to tinker with foaming and re-foaming with pieces you have to slit, till it's just right; or as right as it can be. Too thick and it may jam the camera or be rough on the mirror hinges. Too narrow, and the mirror will over-travel its intended distance, being hard on the hinges once again. PITA.
    Yes, I should have mentioned this. Felt trims aesily with a very sharp blade, I glue the trimmed surface. Contact cement - Weldwood or Pliobond or Barge - all work well.

  6. #6
    lxdude's Avatar
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    Jon Goodman is a member here, who specializes in foam kits. He's highly regarded as a good guy. Here's a somewhat recent thread on him:

    www.apug.org/forums/forum147/110259-jon-goodman-aptly-described-his-name.html
    I do use a digital device in my photographic pursuits when necessary.
    When someone rags on me for using film, I use a middle digit, upraised.

  7. #7

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    You can order mirror foam from Micro-tools. Some folks have used computer mouse pads for mirror foam.

    Jim B.

  8. #8

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    Computer mouse pad is way too dense. Newton's 3rd law. The mirror bounces back off the more "bouncy" denser foam, and that is harsh on the hinges and actuation linkage. I had fair luck with the foam that HO gauge model railroaders buy at the hobby shop to use under their tracks. I slit this material as needed to customize a new bumper foam. Remember that the shiny face of the foam has to be slit off to reveal the actual bubbly interior. You do not want the mirror slapping this surface, as it has no "give". Because this foam is denser than the original, I find I can compensate somewhat by making the width fore-and-aft narrower. This allows me to retain the height of the foam so that the mirror strikes it in the correct last thousandths of an inch in its upward travel. Be very careful not to make foam height too high, lest the mirror will not be allowed to fully travel. Causes jamming. If the mirror is allowed to over-travel, it makes the hinges "sloppy", resulting in malpositioning of the mirror in the down position for focusing.
    To slit the foam, lightly spray-glue a piece of chipboard, stick down your foam, use a ruler to cut fore-and-aft width. Pull up the excess. Then use "rails" you have constructed out of paper and chipboard to put on either side of your foam strip stuck to the chipboard. "Trap" the foam strip between these rails. Lay brand new razor blade down flat across the rails, and begin slicing the length of the foam with a gentle sawing motion. Cut the foam to proper length and attach to the front mirror-box flange. (with tweezers) Do not allow glue to get on the groundglass. You'll never get it clean.
    Last edited by Tom1956; 08-15-2013 at 09:19 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelling

  9. #9

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    Get a microtools piece of foam and you'll have mirror bumps (and other seals) for life. They sell three thicknesses, I just get all three.

  10. #10

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    There is mouse foam a few inches from your hand you need scalpel and metal straight edges don't worry about the nay sayers the camera has survived the old foam turning to goo...
    child modelling clay allows a template for width remove the screen and keep debris away from shutter and other moving bits

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