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  1. #21

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    I use a diopter correction eyepiece on my F3, as I hate wearing glasses myself. I often wear sunglasses, and I just tip these up onto my head when I shoot. To make focusing easier, I use a Beattie intense screen, which is brighter, and allows for precise focus. I often shoot fast telephotos (300/2.8-400/5.6) which have a very shallow depth of field even very far out, and I can focus with a decent amount of precision.

  2. #22

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    I removed the center focusing aid screens from my Nikon F bodies from day-1 to have a flat matte screen to focus anywhere without being "distracted" by (or attracted TO) the center....
    ...and l learned to focus anywhere on the screen...that has helped me a lot with the modern AF focusing screens on dSLRs that are much "finer" than the coarse screens of MF cameras ... though VERY CAREFUL/CRITICAL focusing with the nearly invisible microprism on AF screens is possible, but it requires a lot of concentration....I also don't look at the focus confirm LED...too distracting...

  3. #23
    OldBodyOldSoul's Avatar
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    I have two F3HP with different focusing screens. One has a P screen, which is exactly the same as the standard K but with diagonal split instead of horizontal. The other has an E screen, whose use can be described by what kitanikon said above - it lets me focus pretty much anywhere inside the frame without getting distracted by the split prism in the middle. P is for when I need critical focus and want it confirmed and E is used in all other situations.
    I do still have good eyes (I am 43) so can't really say anything about how all this works with glasses, but there you go.

    Here are different focusing screens for F3, might be helpful
    http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography...eens/index.htm

  4. #24
    marciofs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldBodyOldSoul View Post
    I have two F3HP with different focusing screens. One has a P screen, which is exactly the same as the standard K but with diagonal split instead of horizontal. The other has an E screen, whose use can be described by what kitanikon said above - it lets me focus pretty much anywhere inside the frame without getting distracted by the split prism in the middle. P is for when I need critical focus and want it confirmed and E is used in all other situations.
    I do still have good eyes (I am 43) so can't really say anything about how all this works with glasses, but there you go.

    Here are different focusing screens for F3, might be helpful
    http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography...eens/index.htm
    Thank you.
    I actually don't plan to spend money with it. I would rather use my glasses than to have to spend money and time looking for mos stuffs.

  5. #25

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    Yes. Street photography with SLRs is often easier with lenses of lower maximum aperture. The lack of brightness and greater depth of field avoids the necessity for continually refocusing, which is the bugbear of SLR cameras for that kind of work. For example, an F2.8 lens pre-focused is easier to use than, say, a 1.4 version, where open aperture viewing distracts from pre-visualising the final image. I often use a 28mm lens which has had the stop down lever removed. In daylight the screen is plenty bright enough to compose with at F8, gives the necessary DoF and cures the Pavlovian focus ring twitch. Spectacle use aggravates the impulse to continually re-check focus.

    Wide aperture SLR lenses have their place but IMO street photography isn't their best use.

  6. #26
    AgX
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    With many SLR's with large aperture you still can photgraph in stepped down mode. So you do not need slower lenses just for street photography.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    With many SLR's with large aperture you still can photgraph in stepped down mode. So you do not need slower lenses just for street photography.
    Some SLRs offer that facility, others require the use of a stop down button which delays the process and is all but useless for street photography.

  8. #28
    AgX
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    So, there are cameras where you have to engage that stop-down button time again?
    I prematurely thought they all could be arrested for repeated exposing.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by AgX View Post
    So, there are cameras where you you have to engage that stop-down button time again?
    I prematurely thought they all could be arrested for repeated exposing.
    A lot of SLRs have a spring loaded stop down button which has to be depressed. Generally speaking, older mechanical models and professional SLRs had a lever that could be engaged, as had some late cameras on the body. Stop down mode began to be seen as a luxury as camera technology developed, even as a push button facility. I can't recall whether the OP's F3 and FM can be locked into stop down. If they can, I'd advise experimenting with it for street shooting.

    Strongly coloured filters can provide a similar job of 'unifying' the field of view, but that means shooting B&W.

  10. #30
    marciofs's Avatar
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    I have never touched this stop down thing... Thanks for the tip.

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