Didn't say more accurate. I said it's more precise. It's accurate if it's in good calibration and depends more on the sensor/circuitry than the display. But any how when the FM indicates the 0 it's within 1/5 stop. But then I didn't say which I like better either.
Chan, when the meter needle is splitting the shutter speed indicator right down the middle in an FE or FE2, what is it's precision? You've made me curious now.
If you call it a "prime lens" because it's a fixed-focal length (i.e. not a zoom lens), then as Inigo Montoya said so eloquently, "You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means."
The nice thing about the FE that cant be possible in an FM is the Auto exposure works way beyond the 8 second max exposure and sets the time to the analog time it thinks it should be instead of hard stops. If it needs 5 or 5.3 seconds, it uses that instead of 4 or 8. So that would be a benefit in my eyes.
B does not use batteries if you are into long manually held exposures.
The FM I know nothing about. I used to have an FE though. Nice camera. But one day it up and died for no reason whatsoever. So I bought an FG for $10, since I had owned one once and liked it. The FG is small and light w/ a nice sounding shutter. I don't much like those LED readouts for the shutter speeds though. I much preferred the FE's analog swinging needle meter. In bright sun those LED's are darned hard to see.
How do you buy one for 10 bucks? You look for those ads that say that the camera doesn't work, and if the seller gives you a pic that shows that the mirror is jammed up, that's your camera. In all likelihood all you'll have to do is put fresh batteries in it, set the shutter speed dial to 'B', and try to fire it. Then put the dial to 'A' and it should fire. Replacing the foam on the top where the mirror hits is a good idea at this point, but not absolutely necessary. This little drill has worked for the last 3 FG's I've owned. Very nice (and cheap) little camera. The FE2 is a lot better, but it's a lot more money, and I also had one of those that just stopped working for no reason.
It is best to replace the foam on mirror box and back door ASAP a bit getting to shutter could be instant origami in metal. None of the vertical metal shutters are good at digesting foreign objects.
Better? for better I hear nicer male jewelery or pretty girls.
The EM, FG and FG-20 are ok cameras their kit E lens ok when you strip it to relube, they will take hard use my three FG have dinked metal showing and split plastic panels held together with glue.
I do agree that if you're familiar with and enjoy using the FM2, you will be better off standardizing on it and not losing that 1 second of time recognizing which body is in front of you when you raise it to shoot.
My only concern in having two of the same body is that the OP may wind up confusing which camera holds the Ilford Pan F and which holds the Delta 3200 -- or which holds the color or the B/W film. I kind of like having two different cameras to help keep the film issue straight. Of course one could simply color code each body with tape on the back or across the prism.
for me the FE/FE2/FM3a needle instrument ist the ideal system, especially when working in manual mode. You can immediately see the time the camera would choose and with the green marker the time you have set on the dial (and the f-stop off course). To make an over- or under-correction is much faster than with the exposure correction dial.