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  1. #1
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Need help identifying a Kiev 2a or 4a model before I buy it

    Hi,
    I'm going to see someone tomorrow who is selling a Kiev rangefinder model 2A, but I'm guessing it is a model 4A.
    If you could help me identify this, please see my thread in the RF section: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum65/1...-want-buy.html

    Thank you
    Bert from Holland

    BTW: Sorry for posting this here as well, but I have little time before I visit him tomorrow and I would like to know in advance what I am buying.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  2. #2

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  3. #3

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    It appears to be a Kiev 4A, type 2. The serial number (65xxxxx) indicates that the body was made in 1965 which falls within the 1958-1974 production period for this model. The serial number of the Jupiter 8M lens also indicates it was made in 1965 and is probably the original lens.

  4. #4
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Thanks!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Yeeski View Post
    It appears to be a Kiev 4A, type 2. The serial number (65xxxxx) indicates that the body was made in 1965 which falls within the 1958-1974 production period for this model. The serial number of the Jupiter 8M lens also indicates it was made in 1965 and is probably the original lens.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  5. #5
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    I went over today. I showed him the differences and he agreed it being a model 4A (type 2).
    The camera body was in good condition, only one corner of the leatherette was a bid loose. There was a small dent in filter thread of the lens but nothing serious. He came down to 40 Euro ($52).
    I would have bought it but I didn't trust the shutter. It worked fine on the fast speeds, but I couldn't get if to fire slower than 1/25 s. I did wind before setting the shutter speed. Maybe we did something wrong, maybe it was malfunctioning. The rangefinder worked, but was a bit yellow.

    So I decided not to buy this camera and look for an other one. I did like the look and feel of this camera. So I definitely want one. Maybe one will show up on this forum? There are several offered on Ebay (with case) for about 40 euro within Europe, so I can await my chances for an other 4A with a 35 and 50 mm lens and a case. And maybe I can trade one for an other camera/lens or some darkroom stuff or ...
    I would like a real Contax II as well, but that might be a bit more expensive...

    Thank you all for your quick help in this matter!! APUG is a great community.
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  6. #6
    Peltigera's Avatar
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    "The rangefinder worked, but was a bit yellow." I suspect it is meant to be yellow - makes for better contrast when focussing.

  7. #7
    TheToadMen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peltigera View Post
    "The rangefinder worked, but was a bit yellow." I suspect it is meant to be yellow - makes for better contrast when focussing.
    It seemed to me that the glass or the mirror inside the rangefinder turned somewhat yellow, thus being less clear. I had this problem also (much worse) with an old Zorki: I could hardly see through it anymore.
    It could be a normal yellow view for contrast for this type of camera or maybe a degrading rangefinder? I don't know since I've never seen this type of camera before. But my other rangefinders never were this yellow. So I didn't want to take the risk.

    Does anyone know what is normal for this type of camera?
    "Have fun and catch that light beam!"
    Bert from Holland
    my blog: http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
    my Linkedin pinhole group: http://tinyurl.com/pinholegroup


    * I'm an analogue enthusiast, trying not to fall into the digital abyss.
    * My favorite cameras: Hasselblad SWC, Leica SL, Leica M7, Russian FKD 18x24, Bronica SQ-B and RF645, Rolleiflex T2, Nikon F4s, Agfa Clack and my pinhole cameras

  8. #8
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    Those with an inscription in both Cyrillic and Latin are late III or 4 Kiev cameras. All II and early III Kiev cameras have a single Cyrillic Kiev inscription.
    That one is a Kiev 4A.

  9. #9

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    Hi there, I have used and repaired these cameras including the Contax originals for many years. The viewfinder should be bright and clear, with a slight green tint. There should be a gold coloured oblong in the centre, which is the rangefinder moving image. This gives the contrast so you can easily superimpose the images. The slow speeds can be unreliable due to the poorer manufacturing standards in the Russian factory compared to the Zeiss original.

    It is very likely that any camera you buy will need a CLA - I just bought a 1938 Contax III and ended up fitting a spare (Zeiss) chassis in it due to the original being gummed up and worn. You also need to watch the shutter ribbons, which can snap and are a tricky job to replace.

    They are a nice camera to use, for some reason they and their lenses seem to deliver better results than the Zorki and FED range.

    Cheers,

    Steve



 

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