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  1. #21
    AstroZon's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
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    Colorado Springs
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    One thing I would really recommend is a tripod or monopod. The single stick monopod is great for fast shooting. A tripod is even better, but slower to set up and use, plus bulky if you're mobile. Tripods cannot be beat for macro, low light, or night shooting. If you do use a tripod, also get a cable release so you don't have to touch the camera after you've set it up.

    I use both. I have a couple of medium weight Velbon tripods and a Slik 2110 ball head on a Velbon UP-4000 monopod that I've used for years now. It helps to keep the long lenses steady.

  2. #22
    micwag2's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
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    Eastern Pennsylvania
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    Contact Jon Goodman for your light seals. I've used his kits several times and i can say the quality is top notch with excellent instructions. He is a member on this site.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Colorado
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    I have a nice clean Canon 50mm 1-1.8 FD I'll send you for cost of shipping If you would like. I figure about $6 should cover it. There are no scratches, haze or fungus, and lens body looks fairly new. +1 on John Goodman's seals. PM me if interested.

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    North Carolina
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    thanks for all the replys i had forgot i made a post haha, i'm going to use the silver body for awhile and restore the black one over time, also replyed to you 2bits, im really nervous on doing the developing myself i'm clueless on that subject more so then what settings to use on my camera haha

  5. #25
    Jim Taylor's Avatar
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    Nov 2009
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    West Yorkshire, UK
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    Don't be nervous! You're among friends on here. Browse through the forums and get some advice on how to develop your first roll. All of the main manufacturers offer simple how-to instruction sheets, available as a .pdf from their website.

    Above all, take your time and enjoy - you'll be hooked!
    Cheers,

    Jim.

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    UK
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    35mm RF
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    3,113

  7. #27

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New Jersey (again)
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    35mm RF
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    You should shoot with both lenses with some 200 or 400 speed film. Then decide if they meet your expectations. Often, you will read someone's opinion about a lens, saying it's great, average or crap. But I've always felt that it's best to test yourself, because how you use a lens might accentuate its strengths.

    For example, there continues to be much discussion about which Olympus Zuiko f/1.4/50mm lens is best. And it all to do with the serial number. There has been a continuing discussion for years about which Carl Zeiss Planar for the the Rolleiflex TLR is best. Or the Xenotar vs. Planar.

    I think there is a similar discussion about the Nikkor f/2.5/105mm lens, and the Leica 21mm lens for the M-mount, and backfocusing or frontfocusing of certain other lenses. The list is endless.

    I would just shoot the lens without any preconceived notions and draw your own conclusion. What I mean is don't go out with the lens thinking, "Why am I doing this? This lens is crap."

    Shoot it, and see if you like the results.

  8. #28
    Hatchetman's Avatar
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    May 2011
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    Chicago, IL
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    I would get the 50mm offered above and stick with that for a while. Quality will be great even at wide apertures. Send film to a top-notch lab like NCPS and get quality scans done. Why? So you can see what you did right/wrong and so you know what the image quality is supposed to be. You will never learn what you are doing with low quality scans. It will look bad and you will be disappointed all around.

    You can develop your own easily and rather cheaply. Just find the Ilford pamphlet on-line and use their materials. BUT then what? You probably don't have a good scanner or the technical ability to use it properly. So you need to set up a darkroom to make your own prints! Learning to do all this stuff is just too much at one time in my opinion.

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    North Carolina
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    35mm
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    10
    i'm kinda upset, i had two rolls of film not work for me, i couldn't tell if they never gripped the rewinder or what i'm not sure if it took any pictures on two rolls

  10. #30

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Barcelona/Córdoba
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    I refered to the bayonet type as in a post above the new versions were adviced. The new version is a true bayonet concerning handling, the older Version is a breech lock.
    To refer to "true bayonet" mount and then change your claim to "concerning handling" is worse than misleading, especially to those, who must be many, who do not understand the difference between the two totally different types of mount, the breech lock rarely being seen these days from any manufacturer. The late FD type is a breech lock just as much as all the earlier R, FL and original FD types. Basing naming of a mount on handling is unhelpful. It could lead to newcomers believing the two versions of the lens are incompatible.

    Informed users such as those on forums like FD Forum and the FD forum on Photonet generally avoid such confusion by using the clear expressions "chrome ring, original FD, old FD or simply FD" versus "late FD, new FD, second FD or simply nFD/FDn".

    If there is such a thing as a "true bayonet mount" it must be the military coupling from which the mount takes its name.

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