Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,813   Posts: 1,581,574   Online: 923
      
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22
  1. #11
    q_x
    q_x is offline
    q_x's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Poland
    Shooter
    Pinhole
    Posts
    165
    I'm opening aperture ring entirely, and I'm measuring the distance in between the follower and the bayonet tab. I'm pretty sure that's the edge of the follower that's coupled with the body, but I'm not sure about if all bayonet tabs in all the lenses have to be machined perfectly. What I'm getting with good lenses is 8.8mm.

    For today, my guess is as follows: The lenses (apart from old Revuenon, that's not even the biggest problem with this lens...) are machined tolerably well. The body itself measures things tolerably well. Hence the confusion. Added up, these small errors grow to considerable size, visible and measurable with Ricoh's needle, but not with Carena's LEDs with 2-3x bigger tolerance. Hence it looks OK with the followers off by over 1/2 stop, not mentioning 0.6mm (1/4 fstop or even less) in case of Pentax-M. It's still odd. But at least it's a kind of repeatable error one can live with.

    K1000 is the only model I want to try some day in whole K-mount world, you don't need to convince me here. As soon, as something breaks in what I have currently, I'll think of buying it. Cheap, reliable in dust, cold, hot and humid, well documented in terms of repairs (only with Leicas and Pentax LX I've been able to find repairs documented as well, as here) and otherwise featureless, so there's less breaking points - this is what I need. Even if it's a 1kg brick, I'll carry it if it's worth the effort.

    Also every model with Wheatstone bridge (not match needle meter) will be pretty ignorant when it comes to battery voltage and easy to adjust.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    UK
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    3,520
    Good Ill try and reverse engineer your datum when I finish cooking.

    And the K1000 is small and light not that much more in size and weight than an OM1. The later models are even lighter than mine.

    The circuit is indeed a bridge but part if the bridge is a differential galvanometer, they really did not skimp there even is an electronic off switch.

    Mine works ok on alkaline cells.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    UK
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    3,520
    I've measured 7 Pentax k and two 3rd party and they are all the same within 0.2 mm and I can see how you get 8.8 mm.

    And no I don't own 7 only 3 the others are repair jobs.

    Don't think it is meaningful to do any exposure readings cause all my batteries are flat... normally I use /16 in Sun but the other camera is a Cosina CSL and battery dependent.

  4. #14
    q_x
    q_x is offline
    q_x's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Poland
    Shooter
    Pinhole
    Posts
    165
    Yaay, thanks!
    At least I know it's lens fault partially.

    I've had a fair glance at K1000's repair manual, including schematics. It was a part of my recent research. It's a pity there are so few complete service books available. Optical off switch is really clever feature there, at least for what I want to do - not much with sport od wildlife work, when the cap is off for most of the time. Ricoh is way more frustrating, turning on the meter with the wind lever often works better, than expected.

    Specs, including weight, are important for me, but more so reliability. Carena weights 450g without feeling flimsy, there's quite a long way to 620g of K1000, enough for a spare (or the only) lens (pancake is ~110g IIRC). OM1 is not small, but it's really low. Weight-wise, there are cameras way lighter, like *ist, 335g, pity it works only with auto-aperture lenses, not as hardy, as M series.

    I take extreme measures when it comes to reducing weight - from not taking a cup on a week long trip in the woods to cutting my toothbrush in half. Not that I can't carry more, but being less tired simply makes more sense (and more opportunities for a good photo). But I won't save weight at the cost of reliable photography gear, as I won't on a comfy backpack or a spacious hammock.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    UK
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    3,520
    I used to take a Rolli35T, a plastic becker with alcohol stove kettle and saucepan and microlight tent... There was a mini toothbrush to.

  6. #16
    Nikon Collector's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Carolina Beach, NC
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    162
    The K1000 is not a BAD camera I just do NOT like the auto on meter with removing the lens cap and I use mirror lock-up and the self timer a lot, and the K1000 has neither.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    UK
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    3,520
    Unless you remove the cap with the camera to the eye it is an auto off. I carry the camera on a wrist strap hood toward's me first pressure on the release and the batteries still last a while.
    Some other cameras are worse excepting the no meter ones.
    In gbag it is always off it is dropped in with hood in place no cap.

  8. #18
    q_x
    q_x is offline
    q_x's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Poland
    Shooter
    Pinhole
    Posts
    165
    Xmas, I have to confess I'm an alcohol stove addict... Thanks for the tips!

    Nikon Collector, in XR-1s I have mirror lockup with self-timer, Carena CX-300 (same as Cosina CT-1ex) is feature-wise K1000, shrunk down, with LEDs rather than a needle. At least I know where I'm going. I know I'll be missing some features, but it's not about feature-full camera in my case. I doubt there's an analog one in K-mount world offering fair weather-sealing with matrix metering, and that's the mandatory stuff for some people in similar circumstances. I need simplicity, and if this means taking a cable release with me - I'll take it, no problem.
    Use the Force, Luke!

  9. #19
    RalphLambrecht's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Central florida,USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    6,791
    Images
    1
    I had the same happening to me withis body and the Ricoh55mmf/2.8 lens. While it is a perfectly fine camera,Ricoh's metering system leaves much to be desired.it doesn't measure with an opened aperture and stops down just prior to the exposure but measures with the working apertureand that just is not sufficientlight intensity for the internal light meter to work properly. one remidy for me was:measure with open aperture,then stop down and compensate by extending the shutter speed accordingly;that's very cumbersome but worksand makes good practice for learning the exposure triangle. my pain waS OVER AFTER SWITCHING TO A NIKON FM. I FELT LIKE BEING IN heaven.
    good luck.
    Regards

    Ralph W. Lambrecht
    www.darkroomagic.comrorrlambrec@ymail.com[/URL]
    www.waybeyondmonochrome.com

  10. #20
    q_x
    q_x is offline
    q_x's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Poland
    Shooter
    Pinhole
    Posts
    165
    Ralph, my Ricoh XR-1s measures the light wide open.
    Use the Force, Luke!

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin