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  1. #11

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    If you're near a dive shop you can buy silicon grease used for lubricating regulator o-rings.
    ZipSlip is the brand I am familiar with.
    (It's pharmacuetical grade, so you may find multiple uses for it)

    The flange distance for your Elmar is probably not compatible with the camera unless you heavily mod the mirror box.

    IDK, but assuming the common M39 enlarger lens mount is the same as the Leica threads, an enlarger lens board, or even a bubble case like for an El-Nikor might be a good source for the threaded mount, if you want to avoid harming your M adapter.

  2. #12
    Truzi's Avatar
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    Umm... at the risk of TMI, I'll second Terry's post, lol. As for latex, it is the petroleum-based lubricants that are contra-indicated.

    I'm assuming that cost and ease of acquisition is important because it is a kit kamera. Otherwise, it might be a good idea to purchase a lubricant specifically for camera repair/service.

    I'm not sure how a "personal" silicon-based lubricant will hold up in other applications. I don't think they are designed for longevity. Perhaps a visit to an auto parts store may be better for more durable lubes. Lithium grease (typically used for brake calipers, among other things) are very good and do last, but I don't know how good that would be for a camera.
    Truzi

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdial View Post
    If you're near a dive shop you can buy silicon grease used for lubricating regulator o-rings.
    ZipSlip is the brand I am familiar with.
    (It's pharmacuetical grade, so you may find multiple uses for it)

    The flange distance for your Elmar is probably not compatible with the camera unless you heavily mod the mirror box.

    IDK, but assuming the common M39 enlarger lens mount is the same as the Leica threads, an enlarger lens board, or even a bubble case like for an El-Nikor might be a good source for the threaded mount, if you want to avoid harming your M adapter.
    Thanks, I hadn't thought about using a bubble case.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  4. #14

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    The shutter drum opening in that camera limits the aperture of any lens adapted to it. It is a tiny, trapezoid shape. Therefore you will not get to use apertures larger than f8 or f11 on an adapted 50mm Elmar. You can set the aperture to a larger value but the small opening will effectively limit it.

    When I first saw it had a removeable lens I hoped the shutter would be a single speed + B version of an Exa 1 drum shutter built out of plastic. But alas when it arrived it was apparent that the design of the shutter would severly limit hacking other lenses to use on the camera.
    Last edited by pen s; 12-26-2013 at 11:12 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Jones View Post
    Rather than butcher a Leitz bayonet to LTM adaptor, look for a LTM lens flange online. It ought to be cheaper than the value of anything branded Leitz.
    Fedka - http://fedka.com/catalog/product_inf...5dc6a5831292d2

  6. #16
    alienmeatsack's Avatar
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    I got my small tube of silicon lubricant at at Lowes/Home Depot for a few dollars. I use it when I need to lube parts of cameras or other things that are sensitive and I want proper lube to do the job right. It works nicely for the Konstructor.

    You can also just file and polish the plastic parts that interact to make their movement more smoooth if you aren't comfortable putting lube in the camera. But FWIW, the places I am talking about lubing are not areas that are ever going to see the film or get near the film itself. Aka the gears inside the top that control the film advance, the film take up spool and the sprocket gear at that advances the film itself.

    Also, on a non-lube related Konstruktor note, if you are experiencing issues with the sprocket wheel tearing up film that filing the ends of it down and smoothing them just a tad helps. Not too much that they won't catch in the film and pull it along, mind you. I went over all the parts of mine with a nail file and some polishing fine grit sandpaper to smooth it out which helped.

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